Restaurant review

Silver Leaf, Stanley Hotel, Port Moresby

It has taken me a while to work out exactly why Silver Leaf has made such a good impression on me.

Yes, the food at The Stanley’s fine dining restaurant is really good but there is more to the place than that. Perhaps it was because I visited on a Friday evening and I was relieved the working week was over? Actually, Silver Leaf has something that many hotel restaurants around the world struggle with – ambience.

It certainly helps that Silver Leaf has one of Port Moresby’s best vantage points, overlooking the lights of Waigani from level 19 of the hotel. It is only open in the evening, as during the day it forms part of the hotel’s executive lounge.

But the interior design clinches it: with high ceilings, soft lighting and elegant fittings the atmosphere evokes a private members’ club from a bygone era. The tables (located in one row along the full-length windows) are well spaced out and the service is efficient but discreet.

The menu is eclectic, drawing inspiration from all around the globe. Seafood and steaks (including wagyu and aged beef) are prominent. I started with flame-grilled salmon, served Japanese style (think wasabi avocado and teriyaki sauce), which had a sophisticated yet subtle flavour, before moving on to the roasted lamb rack. This was a simpler dish, making the most of the excellent ingredients.

The wine list is surprisingly diverse, so I opted for a white wine from Spain’s Galicia region. It was in good condition despite its long journey and reasonably priced. Indeed, while Silver Leaf certainly isn’t cheap it does offer good value, considering its lofty ambitions.