PRACTICAL ALTERNATIVE

Easy to keep and light on the wallet, the FRT requires no special equipment or additives. No trace elements, bottled plankton, weekly water changes (I haven’t changed my tank’s water in a year), or constant worrying about whether your staghorn coral head will make it to the next month.

All you need is a good-sized tank with a dark background. Blue or black works best, but a printed reef backdrop will give an illusion of depth.

The two most important elements of your FRT are lighting and current, because these give the impression of being under the sea. For lighting, stick with blue and white LEDS. To create a current, get a good powerhead for a powerful flow, mimicking the powerful tides which pull water and plankton over a coral reef.

Next comes the substrate. White Coral sand of course works best, though I used black volcanic sand to emphasize the colors of the fish. White Coral sand will also raise the ph of the water, which is good for hardwater swimmers like Rift Valley Cichlids but bad for softwater dwellers like Amazonian fish.

The two most important elements of your FRT are lighting and current, because these give the impression of being under the sea.

Instead of the live rocks (limestone rocks encrusted by coralline algae, Sponges, Corals, and other critters) which usually form the base of a “mini-reef”, use volcanic or limestone rocks. In time, beneficial bacteria and other microorganisms like algae will coat these surfaces, forming freshwater live rocks.

Please don’t use real Coral or live rocks. Our goal after all is to recreate the beauty of the sea sustainably.

Author Gregg Yan’s FRT, stocked with Glofish and peaceful Cichlids like Yellow Princes. Except for the sand and stones, all decorations are made of resin, rubber or plastic. The setup requires very little maintenance, especially compared to a marine aquarium. (Gregg Yan | Best Alternatives)