Seven Burgundy Wines That Won’t Disappoint

($30) This estate is just being introduced to the US. This premier cru white is elegant and deep, with minerality and bright zingy freshness — a bargain at this price.

($45) In the shadow of Puligny-Montrachet, the Saint-Aubin appellation is on an upward quality track. This premier cru white is savory and mineral-tinged.

($46) Star winemaker Pierre Morey formed his small negociant company to make reasonably priced wines. This one is crisp and savory, with plenty of character for the price.

($50) may be down 40%. At the same time, global demand for Burgundy is skyrocketing. That started with the great 2005 vintage, when it finally dawned on many Bordeaux collectors that top

With lovely aromas of raspberries and cherries, this is one of the best values in the domaine’s portfolio of reds. ($65)

Smoky, vibrant, mineral-driven, this elegant village-level white has notes of earth and bright fruit.

($70) With subtle aromas and a silky texture, this spicy premier cru red has berry-like grace notes. ($ 120)

Vibrant and sexy, this showy premier cru red is super-pleasurable and seductive; its price reflects Bernstein’s reputation as well as the wine’s quality.

Burgundies were much scarcer. Even in years without weather problems, the famous Côte-d’Or, the heart of the region, makes only 1% of the wine

in France. The patchwork of tiny plots of vines is classified into basic Bourgogne, village-level cuvées, and at the top, premier and grand cru vineyards that account for only 19% of the wines.

The world’s well-heeled wine lovers are chasing the premiers and grands crus from the 20 famous names ( your Romanée-Conti, Rou-mier, Rousseau, and Roulot). Prices have risen so fast, some domaine owners are no longer sure what to charge, especially because merchants and restaurants mark them up way, way more.

Can Burgundy prices keep rising? Or will the bubble burst? Will wine lovers rebel and look elsewhere for their pinot noir and chardonnay?

These questions are giving owners of small domaines, such as Pethel of Domaine Dublère, sleepless nights. Though they’re paying higher prices for grapes, such vinters as Croix and Pethel don’t have superstar status, so there’s a limit to what they can charge for their wines before buyers start saying “no way.” That squeeze is why Pethel fears a Burgundy “apocalypse” of small players shutting down or a dramatic price crash.

Wine lovers, including me, have bemoaned Burgundy’s rising prices for a decade. Bottles I could buy for $30 three years ago cost $70 or $80 today, while those from the 32 grand cru vineyards in the region have become trophies for one-percenters. Just one example: The 2013 La Romanée from Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair is nearly $3,000 a bottle.

“It’s a question of scarcity — short harvests ( 2012, 2013, 2014) or less crop than expected (2010, 2011, 2015),” explains Jasper Morris, the Burgundy buyer for UK merchant Berry Bros. & Rudd. “Some growers may be greedy, but mostly they’re trying to stay afloat.”

Despite weather problems, there are good wines in all the past five vintages: 2010 is excellent for reds and whites; 2011 is a definite notch down, with light, fruity, and charming wines; the best 2012s are rich and luscious, while complicated 2013 produced juicy, pure reds and whites for drinking now. In 2014, whites are the stars. The 2015s look stunning, but prices will be very high.

MERCHANTS SEE ALL THIS AS A PERFECT STORM.

In the US, David Kunicki, a vice-president of importer and distributor Martin Scott Wines, worries that savvy American buyers may not be willing to keep paying high prices. “Now,” Kunicki says, “I’m looking for value.” In London, some merchants buy only Burgundies they can sell as futures. Sebastian Thomas, of London’s Howard Ripley Wines, warns: “There are a lot of mid-range Burgundies from recent vintages stuck in the pipeline. If customers see wines increase by over 100% in three years, they vote with their feet.” So what’s the answer for a Burgundy lover? Buy strategically. Go for basic Bourgogne rouge and blanc from famous names, and buy village level Burgundies, especially those labeled vieilles vignes ( old vines), and less expensive premiers crus from small negociants such as those in my list below. Other good up-and-coming producers include Chantereves, Sylvain Pataille, and David Moreau.

For Americans, the strong dollar against the euro helps — at least for now.