The first journey
There are stages in life that every young adult must pass. The first trip alone, from the shelter of the parental home, is a major step.
One takes a virtual and vicarious journey through the fresh eyes of a young graduate on the verge of a new chapter in his life.
The traditional grand tour begins in late autumn, days before the frost appears. The glow of the imminent winter casts a magical aura over the cityscape.
The City of Lights is a magical place that remains in one’s heart and memory. Despite time and distance, it remains vivid like a polished diamond. Every season reveals a different facet as it refracts sunshine or moonlight.
Spring and summer give the city a rainbow sheen with the dazzling brilliance of gold, poppy red, tournesol yellow and viridian green.
Now the foliage is a rich tapestry of bordeaux, burgundy, copper, russet interwoven with olive and forest greens.
The sun dips gently behind the skyline dominated by the Tour Eiffel. At twilight, the sky becomes a translucent gauze backdrop of pale lilac and peach fading into blue-gray.
The wide boulevards radiate from the Arc like rays of an earthbound star. In the distance, the tower stands imperiously oblivious to the crowds below.
On the first day, a picturesque river cruise takes the traveler on the slate gray Seine to explore the city, get acquainted with the islands and the bridges with different characters. The water turns into a liquid mirror of glimmering reflections of gilt buildings against a cerulean sky. The bateaux etch abstract ripples on the glossy surface.
It is chilly but energizing after the long plane ride.
The ornate lampposts on the bridges, boulevards, fountains and park blink as they are switched on. Suddenly, the stars twinkle like crystal points in the indigo sky. Candle flames flicker though the beveled window panes of bistros and cafés. Chandeliers gleam in the dazzling halls of the Opera and chateaux.
At dawn, the shimmering silver mist hovers above the Notre Dame’s Gothic spires and the city’s tiled rooftops. As the sun slowly rises over the majestic trees of the Bois de Boulogne, the haze dissipates into the air. The sky is illuminated in a watercolor wash of lavender and blue. Clouds drift by like floating sailboats.
In retrospect, many years later, one recalls the magical aura of Paris. It is a unique multi-faceted jewel that needs to be discovered, again and again.
The city begins to throb at noontime. On the bohemian side, Rive Gauche, all the cafés fill with artists, students and tourists. The ambiance si fragrant with the aroma of coffee and pungent Gauloise cigarettes. In this part of the world, people still smoke everywhere.
A vibrant cacophony of multilingual words soars above lime syncopated notes of a jazz medley.
There is a special charm and magnetism about the Latin Quartier. It has a “je ne sais quoi” character not found on the chic Faubourg St. Honore and the elegant arrondisements near the Bois. The ambiance is a mélange of old-world wisdom and freespirited modernity.
On the nearby hill across town, Montmartre vibrates on a nostalgic dimension. Musicians serenade the café habitués with vintage accordions, violins and plaintive music. Artists sketch intimate pastel or pencil portraits. Mime artists portray living sculptures of sphinxes and Pierrots.
The Sacre Coeur basilica overlooks the city — a guardian angel in white robes. Its vestibule and altar glow with votive candles. The incense smoke pervades the air. The strains of the harpsichord music linger in the mind.
Not far away is the vintage carousel with prancing horses.
Walking on the pebbled pathway through the park, one can watch the microcosmic comedy of life unfold. Children play tag and float tiny sailboats on the huge fountain. Lovers cuddle on benches along the long hallway of trees. People wander through the park, nibbling roasted chestnuts.
Across the vast park stands the majestic arc and beyond it are the glittering, imposing glass pyramid and the palatial Louvre museum. It is a heartstopping sight.
Its radiance entices the art lover to enter its hallowed hall and be entranced by the awesome treasures of art and antiquities — the legacy of past civilizations. One tiptoes into the vaulted chambers the Renaissance to gaze in wonder at the masterpieces. The most alluring is the Mona Lisa — Leonardo da Vinci’s La Gioconda with her mysterious smile and hypnotic eyes.
It takes many years of repeat pilgrimage to appreciate the Louvre. The first-time visitor may be overwhelmed by visual overload. However, the rich immersion in art and history is priceless. Like a fine degustation meal, one should savor the artworks and digest them ever so slowly.
A leisurely stroll across the Seine leads to the Musee D’Orsay which holds a vast collection of Impressionist paintings. Monet, Degas, Renoir, Cézanne were among the prominent artists who captured the fleeting essence of light in various themes — the changing seasons, portraits and different moods.
In another hall illuminated by natural light, the viewer sees the radiant sunflowers (tournesols) and the starry skies of Van Gogh, the tropical colors of Tahitian life by Gauguin, and captivating provocative artworks of Picasso.
The splendor of Versailles and its dazzling hall of mirrors, the romantic sunset and La Vie en Rose will be among the treasured memories of the grand tour.
In retrospect, many years later, one recalls the magical aura of Paris. It is a unique multifaceted jewel that needs to be discovered, again and again.
This first journey to the old world is just the beginning of many steps in life. C’est si bon.
MARIA VICTORIA RUFINO is an artist, writer and businesswoman. She is president and executive producer of Maverick Productions. mavrufino @gmail.com