Build your indoor setup
For those asking about what kind of light to use, there is literature claiming that red and blue spectrum lights are the way to go since the other colors are not utilized by the crop anyway. On the other hand, there’s also research indicating that full spectrum light is still preferable
Growing your herbs and leafy vegetables indoors has many advantages and is fun to do on a hobby scale. For example, the environment is fully within your control. It may rain endlessly outside, but your indoor system will not be affected at all. If it’s cloudy and the sun is not available, no problem. The artificial lights and the important parameters (ex. spectrum, intensity, photoperiod, etc) can be adjusted according to what is ideal for the crop being grown. Even the temperature (rootzone or above rootzone), relative humidity and nutrient concentration are adjustable to your liking.
Contrary to what some may think, setting up your own indoor system is actually quite easy, provided you know what you are doing. To start off, you may simply buy a multiple level shelf. And then, on per level basis, you can attach artificial lights at the top portion and connect it to a timer to automate the total hours that the crop will be exposed to light.
To maximize the utility of the lights, consider covering the sides of the shelf with a reflecting insulation material. This will help the light penetrate the leaf canopy. Atmospheric thermometer and a hygrometer (some come in a two-in-one package) are handy for keeping track of the environment’s thermometer and relative humidity.
And then you have to setup your grow area. An easy (and cheap) option is to ask your local fruit vendor for those polystyrene boxes used to store and protect grapes during travel. They throw these away after use. Clean the box, line the lower portion with plastic, purchase a hydroponic solution and prepare it accordingly, and fill up the lined lower portion of the polystyrene box with the nutrient solution.
As for the cover, drill holes spaced accordingly using a hole saw. The hole should be big enough to slip in a netpot (usually two-inch diameter) or, should you prefer to save, a cheap plastic or polystyrene cup with slits and holes at the bottom and on the side will suffice. Your grow system (google Kratky or SNAP solution setup) is now prepared. Place the box on the shelf, slip in the netpots with seedlings in them and let the automated lighting system do the work for you.
For those asking about what kind of light to use, there is literature claiming that red and blue spectrum lights are the way to go since the other colors are not utilized by the crop anyway. On the other hand, there’s also research indicating that full spectrum light is still preferrable. In any case, this writer has seen many systems using the latter with an impressive harvest output.
Further, full spectrum lights (or white light, look for 6500 color temperature) is easier and less expensive to source. You can find this at your local hardware store.
As for finding the kind of artificial light that can provide the right amount of illumination for the plants necessary for photosynthesis, remember these terms: (1.) lumens (2.) photosynthetic active radiation and (3.) daily light integral. Each crop, and depending on its growth stage, needs enough light for its prescribed daily light integral (“DLI”). Otherwise, usually at least, the crop grows in a stretched (or leggy) way.
Here’s the interesting part: you can compute the daily light integral using a calculator/ converter accessible online. Input the lumens and the hours the light is turned on, you’ll get the photosynthetic active radiation (PAR). Now, you can convert that PAR into DLI using another online calculator/converter. Check if you’re getting the right DLI. If not, increase photoperiod, or get an artificial light that has higher lumens, or both.
All the items mentioned in this column can be purchased at your local hardware store.