Solitary soul in Catania
Catania is at the east coast of the island of Sicily, nestled at the base of Mount Etna, one of the world’s most active volcanoes
Blessed with the company of three travel groups at different destinations and times, I am always surrounded by camaraderie, laughter and fun. And yet, I found myself alone to wander the streets of Catania for a day to experience the variety of sensations as a solo traveler.
One of the 10 largest cities in Italy, Catania is the east coast of the island of Sicily, nestled at the base of Mount Etna, one of the world’s most active volcanoes.
History tells us that in the 1600s, the small metropolis suffered devastating damages due to the eruption of the volcano. Several years after came overwhelming earthquakes and continuous aftershocks throughout the region.
The destruction led to the active rebuilding of the trademark Baroque architecture that now best defines Catania as a cultural and political center.
My early walk led me to the bustling Catania fish market, with the freshest catch just offloaded from a fleet of independent fishing boats the morning of! A selection of seafood — name it, they had it — was at its prime, as discerning chefs from premier restaurants and caring moms with heirloom recipes in mind all hovered around the stalls for their choice sea bounty. The upper floor of this chaotic marketplace was reserved for a calmer, yet varied selection of the freshest and ripest produce, together with dedicated sections of herbs and spices for retail or in bulk — somebody’s dream selection.
One in particular specialized in slices, blocks and wheels of cheeses, and I couldn’t resist and acquired some ricotta, pecorino and burrata, among many other varieties available. A stone’s throw away was the Piazza Duomo, a limestone- and lava-paved UNESCO World Heritage site. Its main feature is the center tower, Fontana dell’ Elefante, an Egyptian obelisk topped with a smiling elephant, all distinctly made of the same volcanic rocks of natural calamities past which covered the area.
I eavesdropped on some locals who toured some guests, as they whispered this statue has since protected the city from harsher disasters. Thank the heavens! Nearby was the Amenano Fountain, a marble sculpture whose water flows into a river below. Let’s not forget the Achilles Baths, a hidden spa accessible only through an underground entrance.
My next stop was the Catania Cathedral, devoted to Saint Agatha. The patroness had served inspiration for the interiors, with all three floors lined with her statues in a Baroque setting, after the previous iteration was damaged by the earthquake. It looked like a mini museum, for it likewise housed valuable and priceless treasures. It features the Holy Roman Empress Constance of Aragon’s tomb and the tomb of Vicenzo Bellini, the composer best known for the bel canto movement and his long melodic pieces.
Another attraction was the Church of Saint Michael the Archangel, which is shaped like a Greek cross, with the main altar that hosts a large organ just above. It is known as the place of the Il transito di San Giuseppe painting, with Saint Joseph in his final moments on Earth.
However, my main agenda for the day was the Teatro Greco, finally within my sights. Semicircular in shape, its higher seats were limestone blocks, while VIPs had marble thrones. A recent discovery were carvings and messages on the structure, which has intrigued many an archaeologist and historian.
On the inside halls, the twists and turns led to other rooms and cells, which might have hosted warriors, staff and animals in the old days.
Today, it continues to be utilized as an entertainment center for concerts, plays and other festivals.
Before retiring to my hotel, I made a detour to the Benedictine Monastery and the Earthquake House, all creations of the religious congregation.
But that’s for another story, another time.