Though it has been pro­claimed dead many times over, the neck­tie is a sar­to­rial in­stru­ment that will never fade away.

Esquire (Philippines) - - THIS WAY IN - BY CLIF­FORD OLAN­DAY

The neck­tie is not a silk stran­gler; nau­ti­cal style goes up­scale; the best mil­i­tary pieces are found on­line; a fra­grant and sen­sual night in Lon­don.

The tie is dead or dy­ing. Leave it at home. Give it away. What­ever you do, don’t wear it be­cause ap­par­ently men have stopped wear­ing the silk stran­glers. Obama, Putin, Harry (as in Prince), and many Hol­ly­wood stars have opted out of the knot. If you’re look­ing for more proof, just re­fer to last year’s JPMor­gan Chase memo that de­tails the com­pany’s de­scent into the ca­su­al­iza­tion of the of­fice. In one of the largest fi­nan­cial in­sti­tu­tions in the world, you can now roll in to work sans tie (and suit). Imag­ine that.

Christophe Goineau, artis­tic di­rec­tor of men’s silks at Her­mès, sees the so­cial forecast an­other way. The tie is not dead; its role has evolved. Where once it trans­mit­ted elegance or strict­ness, now it speaks of bold­ness and char­ac­ter. “Wear­ing a tie is a plea­sure and not an obli­ga­tion any­more. This dif­fer­ence is fun­da­men­tal,” he says. “The tie has be­come more per­sonal. It is now a mat­ter of in­di­vid­ual choice. It ex­presses the real per­son­al­ity of its owner.”

How you dress now “There are peo­ple who wear ties for spe­cial oc­ca­sions be­cause it is the norm. Then there is a whole other type of peo­ple that wear a tie be­cause they just feel like it. The younger gen­er­a­tion sees ties nowa­days more as an ac­ces­sory.”

Break­ing all the rules “To­day, guys see ties less like a uni­form com­po­nent. When they do buy one, they choose some­thing that re­flects their per­son­al­ity. I think this is not about the mood, but the time. There are many ways to wear a neck­tie or a scarf. You can wear a silk scarf in a for­mal way or wear a tie in a ca­sual way. To­day, there aren’t that many rules any­more. You used to hear that stripes shouldn’t be paired with checks [or] checks shouldn’t be paired with dots. This thought process has now com­pletely changed. You can play with the dif­fer­ent ma­te­ri­als, with the dif­fer­ent sizes.”

Pat­terns for your au­di­ence “For men, the most im­por­tant element for choos­ing neck­ties or scarves is the color. Women, on the other hand, tend to fo­cus more on the pat­tern. Male cus­tomers rarely care about the pat­tern, be­cause they rarely lower their heads to look at the neck­ties on their necks. Their wives, part­ners, and friends, how­ever, have to face them all the time, so beau­ti­ful pat­terns are as im­por­tant as the col­ors.”

Tex­tile am­pli­fies “Fab­rics can also bring new ef­fects and com­bi­na­tions (knit­ted, wo­ven cot­ton and silk, the Façon­née tie) and make them de­sir­able.

Silk is, for in­stance, a mul­ti­tal­ented ma­te­rial. The feel­ing is ex­cep­tional; it can be matte or shiny, thick or fine, alone or mixed with other nat­u­ral fibers. But the main point is cer­tainly the way the col­ors are re­lated. The silk gives life to col­ors like no other ma­te­rial.”

A prism of col­ors “The ma­te­rial is of course es­sen­tial, but the right bal­ance of the col­oration is a very im­por­tant part, as well. A tie is sim­ply the to­tal of hun­dreds of de­tails. The young gen­er­a­tion in­deed pays closer at­ten­tion to col­ors, so we in­cluded a wide range of col­ors in our col­lec­tions. We work very dif­fer­ently now from how we did in the past [when] our ties were quite clas­sic. To­day, we try to be very cre­ative and au­da­cious in the col­ors and pat­terns.”

Not about fashion “While work­ing at Her­mès, you have to learn the idea of qual­ity… If you have a prod­uct of good qual­ity, then it can last you a life­time. That is the dif­fer­ence be­tween wear­ing fashion and wear­ing qual­ity. This is the only thing that makes my job dif­fi­cult—to strike the right bal­ance be­tween these two no­tions and still keep it within the Her­mès uni­verse.”

House of wit “I think the hu­mor­ous side of Her­mès is also not al­ways very well known. Peo­ple al­ways think that we are more for­mal and el­e­gant. This is the only way that we can make cus­tomers bond emo­tion­ally with the prod­ucts; these ob­jects can res­onate with their per­sonal feel­ing.”

Green­belt 3, Makati

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