Lifestyle Asia

Dr. Wine, Cicchetti, and Cru Steakhouse, reinvigora­te Manila's dining scene

- Text YSMAEL SUAREZ Photos BRIA CARDENAS

Since opening back in 2017, Dr. Wine has been a choice spot for wine enthusiast­s, a favorite for Poblacion goers, and a solid pick for quality French fare. It is mainly known for its expansive and premium selections—a pioneer in the growing interest of Filipinos with wine.

DR. WINE in Poblacion highlights the fresh flavors of the sea and brings new vin to their menu

With a well-establishe­d reputation in the Makati scene, one might think that the place only offers well-known premium vinos. On the contrary, Dr. Wine goes beyond the standard Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, offering new selections as well as a myriad of Sunday brunch platters to pair them with.

A RELAXING ABODE

Their interiors exude a sense of home and intimacy that welcomes you the moment you step in. Cozy couches and lounge chairs make most of the seating setup. The walls are adorned with shelves of books and multiple trinkets, adding to the homey vibe. The bar is a spectacle of glass with empty wine bottles lining the back wall. Here you might come across Charles Seguin, their new sommelier and manager, having a chat about their new Bestheim wine with a customer.

Across from the bar, a large wooden table takes the center of the room surrounded by high chairs brightly lit from the lamps overhead. From here, you'll notice their wine cellar, a glass room kept at the right temperatur­e for their entire selection. Hundreds of bottles fill the cellar and the see-through glass does its job in enticing patrons, as it did for me, on which wine to try.

At the rear end of the room is where you can view art by Cesar Caballero, an expatriate artist from Spain. His colorful artwork is displayed at the back corner, creating a mini-gallery within the restaurant. Also here is the serving counter where you can see all their dishes go through final prep before being served out. If you're lucky, you might catch Chef Julien Lecomte prepping a dish.

ADVANCING THE VIN

I sat down with Charles Seguin to talk about their new selection and his insights on the wine preference of Filipinos. For the most part, he sees that when it comes to

taste, Filipinos don’t really have a preference. We’re used to standard wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Grigio which are well-known and have standard taste profiles. His goal for Dr. Wine is to help expand the local palate to other wine profiles by constantly updating their wine selection.

One of their new whites that he's excited for people to try is the Riesling from Alsace, France. Fruity and citrusy, this wine is perfect with chicken, duck, other poultry, and fondue. For a less acidic option, Charles proposes the Pinot Gris—also from Alsace. More mellow in taste than the Reisling, it is best paired with light dishes such as fish, salads, and mild cheeses. The last white to highlight is the Viognier. Almost like a Chardonnay with its richness, this wine goes well with scallops and delicate meats with strong herbs.

For reds, instead of getting your usual, Charles recommends the Cabernet Franc from France. A lighter counterpar­t to Cabernet Sauvignon, it is a dry and medium-bodied wine that works well with sharp flavors such as tomato or vinegarbas­ed dishes due to its high acidity. He also suggests their French Grenache. Pairing it nicely with spicy, strong flavored food to complement its richness and medium acidity. Another one to try is the Shiraz from Australia, a strong, full-bodied, and fruity wine that goes well with smoked meats and firm cheeses. Of course, if you're just in the mood for a classic, you can still enjoy a glass of Pinot Grigio or Malbec from their ‘Wine By The Glass’ list to pace yourself if you don’t feel like finishing a whole bottle.

A FRENCH FEAST

We were treated to their Sunday Brunch seafood platter as well as other French items from their menu chosen by Chef Julien. We were served the Couple Set, a two-tier dish platter with a large serving of mussels, clams, shrimps, winkles (sea snails imported from France), and homemade fish terrine fills the lower plate.

On the upper plate, a whole crab and Fine de Claire oysters top the platter beautifull­y. It is served with a side of salted butter and assorted sauces. Everything on the platter is served fresh and it is evident in the taste. The crab is cooked just right, the shellfish is salty and refreshing, and the salmon terrine is a rich companion to the fresh seafood.

After the platter, Chef Julien wanted us to try other items from their regular menu. The first dish is the Duck Confit Parmentier, a French version of shepherd's pie. It is topped with creamy truffled mashed potatoes, and instead of minced beef as the meat base, you're met with a savory confit duck leg filling. It is served with a red wine reduction sauce. Next, was a plate of Provençal Grilled Pork Tenderloin A L'echalote, which is a serving of grilled pork that was mustard marinated for over 48 hours with an aromatic balsamic and shallot sauce. The layered flavors infused in the meat are heightened with the sharp and sweet taste of the sauce. Lastly, we have the Lobster Roll, a freshly baked flaky croissant stuffed with lobster meat, mayonnaise, greens, and finished with a whole flesh of a lobster claw on top. The buttery richness of the lobster filling melts with the crunch of the croissant—a definite brunch must-try.

Dr. Wine excels, once again, provides an exquisite dining experience highlighte­d by a new wave of wines and fresh seafood platters that truly showcase the fruits of the earth and sea. Chef Julien's masterful servings are a delectable balance of deep and bright flavors, as expected of French cuisine when done right. Charles, on the other hand, has infected me with his enthusiasm for trying more lesser-known wines. Most of us have only tasted the tip of the wine iceberg. This world of flavor and depth is yet to be discovered by many and that discovery can be made with a consult at Dr. Wine. DR. WINE is located at 5921 Algier, Poblacion, Makati, 1210 Metro Manila. For reservatio­ns, contact (0917) 563-8811.

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 ??  ?? 1 Their bar is a shining display of wine bottles that warmly invite you to order a drink
1 Their bar is a shining display of wine bottles that warmly invite you to order a drink
 ??  ?? 3 Adding to the cozy feel, their shelves are filled with books, more wine bottles, and other unique knickknack­s
3 Adding to the cozy feel, their shelves are filled with books, more wine bottles, and other unique knickknack­s
 ??  ?? 2 Cesar Caballero's colorful artwork is displayed at the back corner of
Dr. Wine.
2 Cesar Caballero's colorful artwork is displayed at the back corner of Dr. Wine.
 ??  ?? 4 Chef Julien Lecomte preps the Seafood Platter, delicately placing the shellfish on a bed of ice
4 Chef Julien Lecomte preps the Seafood Platter, delicately placing the shellfish on a bed of ice
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 ??  ?? 3 The Pork Tenderloin is a mix of savory and sharp flavors that make a delicious combinatio­n.
3 The Pork Tenderloin is a mix of savory and sharp flavors that make a delicious combinatio­n.
 ??  ?? 4 Their Lobster Roll is a creamy and crunchy treat that is perfect for
Sunday brunch.
4 Their Lobster Roll is a creamy and crunchy treat that is perfect for Sunday brunch.
 ??  ?? 5 The front porch offers an al fresco area where you can enjoy your food and wine outside
5 The front porch offers an al fresco area where you can enjoy your food and wine outside

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