AN ODYSSEY TO PARADISE
Lifestyle Asia’s Contributing Editor Jeanette Ipapo-Tuason journeys to Santorini, Greece to cross another item in her travel bucket list
Greece is in almost everyone’s travel bucket list. And more often than not, it is because of the wonderful views and idyllic locale that Santorini offers. It was on mine for the longest time. For one, I’m a Greek mythology junkie. Besides having Edith Hamilton’s Timeless Tales of Gods and Heroes as a regular bedside read during my teenage years, any novel with Ancient Greece as a backdrop is an absolute shoo-in.
It took me 20 years to set foot on the cradle of western civilization—as if my subconscious knew that if I go, I may never leave.
When I did, the first few steps took my breath away. It was like meeting the love of your life for the first time. No wonder Greek mythology was the most captivating among all ancient myths to me. The place really looked as if the gods lived nearby—it was mysterious, enchanting, and nothing short of magical.
Typically, when people go to Greece, they would stay for 2 or 3 days and head on to other islands. In our case, we decided to just stay in Santorini for 5 days and soak up all the magic of the island previously called “Calliste” or “The Beautiful One.”
ON THE BOSOM OF THE SEA
According to myth, Euphemus, one of Jason's companions on the quest for the Golden Fleece, dreamt that he was making love with a sea nymph, a daughter of King Triton. The sea nymph got pregnant and needed a place to hide from her father. She told Euphemus to throw a clod of earth from Anaphe to the sea. When he woke up, he did as he was told and from there an island rose, and the sea nymph gave birth to a son named Theras.
Santorini, officially known as Thira, is part of the Cyclades group of islands in the Aegean Sea. Santorini is a nickname given by the Latin Empire which originated from the name of the cathedral in Perissa dedicated to Saint Irene or Santo Irini.
There are four popular towns in Santorini—Fira the center, where all the action is; Oia (pronounced as I-ya) is more upscale and quieter in the evenings. Most of the high-end shops and restaurants are in this area; Imegrovil and Firostofani are more peaceful areas with views of the Caldera (volcanic crater). We stayed at Fira since we were only there for 5 days and wanted to be closer to where all the action is.
Out hotel, Athina Luxury Suites was perched on cliffs and had a full view of the Caldera. It was close enough to the center without achieving your ten-thousand-step target, but far enough that it was quiet and peaceful at the same time.
A Luxury Travel Group and Haute Grandeur winner for Best Boutique Hotel in Greece, each room has a private balcony, private baths, a choice between Hermès or Guerlain toiletries, and Guy Laroche linens and towels. The heated pool and whirlpools also provide an excellent lounging area where you can sip your local sparkling rosé while watching Santorini’s famed sunset. The hotel also houses one of the best restaurants on the island, the Esperisma Restaurant by Chef Vasilis Zacharakis.
Breakfast was the highlight of staying in this hotel. At the privacy of your own balcony, you are treated to a variety of waffles, fresh yogurt with pistachios and honey, spicy breakfast sausages, or a tasty serving of Eggs Benedict. After a hearty breakfast, you can enjoy your cappuccino or Mimosa while you watch the influx of boats from a cruise ship docked at the bay for guests to visit the island.
THE SWEET TASTE OF AMBROSIA
On our first night, our concierge recommended The Argo Restaurant and made a reservation for a table with a view. A must-try in Greece is Shrimp Saganaki—all restaurants have different takes of this dish. Argo’s version is a sizzling plate of shrimp swimming in tomato and Feta cheese sauce that goes perfect with a glass of red wine and some pita bread.
There is a lot of Italian influence in Greek cuisine, perhaps because of its proximity or close relation to the country. According to myth, Italy was founded by Aeneas, son of Aphrodite and a relative of Prince Hector and
Priam. He was brought by his mother to the island after the Trojan War, a known ancestor of Romulus and Remus, the founders of Rome.
The following day we went around Oia and tried Lauda by three-Michelin-starred chef Emmanuel Renaut for lunch. For dinner, we had to trek 30 minutes down to Amoudi
Bay to eat at the Sunset Restaurant. There, we had shrimp (the size of lobsters) and truffle risotto while enjoying the last rays of the day. A word of advice: take a cab or ride the donkey back up to the town.
Do not leave Greece without having calamari—after having it on Perissa Beach, I now realize why it has become one of Greece’s best dish exports. We also tried Ouzeri in Fira beside the Greek Orthodox Cathedral. We had their Tomatokeftedes (tomato fritters) and the day’s special Porchetta which were both divine.
FOR SEAFARERS AND LAND DWELLERS
The most recommended activity is luxury sunset sailing, which will tour you around the island. There, you will see both the red and black beaches and swim in hot springs near the crater of the volcano. For us, we opted to do a day tour on land which took us around the island and its most famous vineyard, the Santo .
People often rent ATVs and explore the island on their own, but since I’m more of the relaxed, someone-else-plan-the-activity type, we decided to skip this. Santorini has so much to offer in terms of changing landscapes; from the cliff-hung houses to the beaches, ruins, and churches carved on mountain tops, you can choose whichever mode of transport you are most comfortable with.
During the tour, our guide explained that the blue-domed roofs seen in photos are usually churches. They said there are more churches than houses in Santorini because, in the olden times, electricity is free for churches, so most
households built one on their properties. Another trivia is that at one point, there was more wine than water on the island, which is quite evident since most of Santorini is planted with grapes, and they have more than 100 local wine labels.
BEYOND OLIVE OIL AND THE EVIL EYE
There must be a goddess of shopping somewhere here that we don’t know of because the island offers a lot of good shopping places. Most stores are stockists of Greek, Italian, and Spanish designers. Prices are acceptable for one-ofa-kind finds and great deals for imported items. I bought Crème de la Mer stuff at 20% off and with tax back. The other place that offers this kind of pricing for products like this is in the Airport in Male.
We focused on the art galleries which featured both local and foreign artists. Most works are focused on the evil eye, sunsets, and the wondrous landscape of the island. There are also a lot of jewelry, housewares, leather sandals, and cotton beach frocks. I must admit I enjoyed shopping here, so don’t forget to schedule some local economy support when you go.
THE SIREN’S CALL
Something about this island is spellbinding. There are other places where the sky meets the sea and houses are perched on the mountain. However, in Santorini, the landscape greets you with the gratitude of being able to witness such splendor. I was right in saying that it is tough to leave this place. Before I left, I already promised my next visit. So here's goodbye, for now, but we will meet again.