AN ITALIAN IN MANILA
OSTERIA DANIELE takes you straight to Italy with its immersive interiors and fresh flavored dishes
Manila has long been accustomed to Italian flavors. The cuisine's distinctive fresh, rich, and sharp tastes have been favorites to our palate's usual penchant for sweetness. Thus is the rise of many Italian spots across the metro that fill this craving for pasta and pizza. Yet in this flurry of pomodoro and olive oil filled dishes, there's
an emptiness that abounds many of these so-called Italian places. Dishes become a shell of their true selves—sauces reduced to a dull, sour bread without bounce or body, pasta with no bite whatsoever. A true Italian gastronomic experience is a rarity to replicate outside their home nation—and yet, this corner osteria in BGC makes a compelling case for itself. Bistronomia's (formerly known as the La Lola Group) newest concept introduces a rejuvenating menu that brings Italian flavors back in focus. With the restaurant group's most ambitious project yet, Osteria Daniele opened its doors back in late June for us to try.
STEPPING INTO ITALY
Before you even step in, you're already greeted to a sight reminiscent of an actual
osteria you would pass by along the streets of Florence, with its al fresco dining tables and bright open windows that give you a peek of the scene inside. A deep cyan coats the exterior walls with gold accents that make their entrance pop against the grey tones of BGC. Just from this, you can already tell that the minds at Bistronomia are on the right track.
Entering their doors, you're met with bright and warm-colored furnishings illuminated by the natural light from the high open windows. With a wooden embellished high ceiling paired with the openness from the windows, this creates an airy and welcoming feel as you walk in. To your right, you'll see their bar which brings together the entire place with its large overhead chandelier and a massive wall of bottles filled with whatever alcohol you need. The bar acts as the hearth of the restaurant, tying the room together, leading your eyes to look straight at it when you enter. A striking first impression from just its aesthetic, which makes you more excited when you get to the food.
AN IDENTITY FULL OF FLAVOR
To start with some insalata, we were served the Burrata and Insalata di Polpo. The burrata was served in a glass bell jar filled with smoke to add a deep earthiness to the cheese. Served with prosciutto and anchovies to add meaty body and salt, the burrata's smokiness contrasts well with its innate creamy taste. As for the polpo, the savoriness of the sea you get from the octopus is met with the pungency of the bagna cauda sauce. Cherry tomatoes and capers add a sharp cut to the flavor while the marbled potatoes
imbue a mellow chew to the salad dish.
Just before the plates of pasta came in, we were treated to a serving of their Gamberetti Aglio e Olio. A grilled prawn dish drenched in garlic chili oil with a drizzle of balsamic vinegar and topped with parsley. Prawn is as easy to pull off as it is to get wrong. The meat is delicate and can become too chewy if overcooked, especially when grilled. Osteria Daniele pulls off this dish with plumply cooked prawns and a sauce that balances richness and sharpness making for a satisfying savory bite right before the pasta.
For the main event, we were served two varieties of pasta: their signature Orecchiette and the Capellini Neri. The Capellini is their take on squid ink pasta, with the ink infused into the pasta noodles. This allows the garlic chili oil sauce to focus more of its flavor on the seafood that the pasta is rich with—baby squid and clams. The depth of the noodles from the squid ink makes a striking match with the strong hits of the sauce. Although the sauce is rich in flavor it doesn't weigh down the dish, perfectly balancing its rich seafood ingredients. In contrast, the Orecchiette is a creamy spicy serving made with bowl-shaped pasta which the dish is named after. The 'Nduja sauce is a creamy
spicy mix made from salumi sausage. This meaty sauce is carried well by the shape of the pasta, giving each bite a generous amount of sauce to coat your tongue and taste all its layered spiciness.
After the medley of flavors from the pasta, we were lastly served the dolce, with a fresh serving of their Cannoli. This crunchy and creamy dish is served with two fillings, one with a deep chocolate mousse and another with a bright vanilla orange. Though both fillings lighten the palate at the end of the meal, each brings a distinct flavor profile. The chocolate is thick and rich with sweetness while the vanilla is light and fruity from the orange adding a tart touch to the dessert. Rounding out this Italian feast with their different yet complementing tastes.
AN OPEN INVITATION TO GOOD FOOD
Osteria Daniele offers Italian fare that is scarcely found in the metro. Though only a few months into their operations, they've managed to distinguish themselves as a fresh addition to the already overcrowded Italian dining market. With a unique take on classic dishes and striking signature fare that can't be found elsewhere, this restaurant designates itself as a prime spot for Italian food. Bistronomia's newest concept is one that was thought over with care and knowledge, seen in its interior design as well as in the creation of their dishes. And with the news of expanding their menu soon, one can only be excited of what's to come from this corner osteria.