BEYOND YOUR WILDEST DREAMS
Lifestyle Asia’s Abby Laurel experiences a one-of-a-kind adventure with Africa’s natural wonders
Rays of sun peaked through the clouds as our 12-seater propeller plane takes off from the runway at Botswana’s Maun International Airport. The pilot, within arm’s reach, is tugging on the levers and flicking the switches calmly, despite the quick dips that create butterflies in my stomach. It’s finally happening, I think to myself, we’re starting our African safari. As we cruise just below the cloud layer, I see the flat landscape of the great Okavango Delta, one of UNESCO’s World Heritage sites known for its vast and lush grassy plains which house some of the world’s most endangered animals. We’re lucky enough to visit during the dry season, where wildlife is plentiful and easily seen, and the weather is pleasant. My mind is racing as I envision sparse plains that stretch out far into the distance, with a great variety of animals, giving the entire landscape the appearance of wrinkled elephant skin.
We land around 10 minutes later. The routine is always the same—a quick pass over the runway to check for wildlife, then the landing. With the engine still on and the propeller in motion, the plane loads and unloads guests and we’re off. I turn to my sister and say it’s somewhat like the Uber Pool of the Bush—clearly, I have yet to detach myself from city life in Manila. As I exit the plane, I am greeted by the warmth of the sun. We are handed cool towels and bottles of water before riding the Land Rover that would take us to our first camp, Chitabe.
INTO THE WILD
Like most camps of the Wilderness Safari group,
Chitabe is cleverly hidden among the trees. Known for its diversity of wildlife, it plays host to a breathtaking mosaic of wetland and grassland habitats. The Meru-style tents hover over wooden decks under large shady trees. After a quick briefing, we were lucky enough to spot a very rare sighting of a pair of cheetah sisters sitting on top of a termite hill on our very first game drive. During our 3-night stay, we are roused in the middle of the night by the roars of a nearby pride of lions and visited by a roving herd of elephants, one of which greeted us right in front of our tent. For good reason, guests are not allowed to leave their rooms alone at night. As rules go, guests should request for an escort through walkie-talkies provided. The feeling of being so exposed is a bit uncanny at first, with the thin screens and canvas of the rooms separating us from the wild. But as nights went by, the serenade of crickets and howls of baboons became familiar.
Days start with a 5:30AM wake-up call, followed by a light breakfast at 6AM. We are greeted by the crisp morning air as we set out for the first game drive of the day, getting energized by the sips of great African coffee. At some point along the way, we’ll likely take a moment at a scenic spot for tea and a small bite to eat before heading back to camp for brunch and relaxation. By 4PM, another round of tea, and we’re off again for our afternoon game drive until just after sunset, in time for what they like to call sundowner or sunset cocktails. Dinner is served at 7:30PM and the bar, which is included in the package, is forever open, which means a nightcap is often followed.
To recap: you’re driven around all day while eating and drinking. It’s both deeply lazy (often the farthest I walked in a day was to and from the Land Rover and our tent) and high-adrenaline (we saw a leopard walking towards our jeep!). Gyms and pools are available at all properties, and weights and yoga mats are in all rooms, though you may find it hard to convince yourself to spend your downtime on a treadmill instead of with a book and a cup of tea when there’s no wifi or cell reception.
While Chitabe means “a place of zebras”, the (conservatively estimated) 50 elephants we saw during our four-day visit suggest that the camp consists of more animals than what its namesake suggests. We follow two male lions, the Moremi Boys, for quite a while after some diligent tracking by our guide, OD. The experience culminates with a roar that elicits a few expletives as the two lay down after ravaging a buffalo, pausing only to look up to be sure we aren’t a threat to them. An apex predator looking directly into your eyes is quite intense.
A THRILLING ADVENTURE
The surrounding floodplains of Kwetsani Camp, our next stop in the Delta, is quite different from the classic safari aesthetic of Chitabe. The treehouse chalets are luxurious, allowing us to see all aspects of the dry lagoon. The fans mostly do the trick of cooling down the room during hot afternoons and the screens serve their purpose, though expect some insects, and even a tiny lizard or two. The giant mosquito nets around the beds do a fine job of keeping out most pesky visitors at night as you drift off to sleep.
By now, the impalas, giraffes, and elephants that at first made me grab for my Sony RX100IV camera are beginning to feel a bit quotidian. I find myself scanning the ground looking for tracks, looking around the group of herbivores for signs of stalking predators. I ask GT, our deeply knowledgeable guide, “Were those baboons alarming?” (making a ruckus because they spotted a predator) or “Have any of the jeeps spotted a fresh kill?”. In my own little way, I’m starting to feel like I have the lay of the land. At one point, we leave the confines of the car for a short guided walk, and I find myself terrified as we decipher tracks of wild African dogs. Later in the afternoon, we’re taken for a ride in a mokoro, or dugout canoe, and I ask our exceedingly patient guide more than once if the water is deep enough to be concealing crocodiles or hippos. It’s not. My apprehension gives way as, low to the water, I can focus on the lily pads, the diving kingfishers, and the fuchsias of another magnificent bush sunset. The glass of Champagne waiting for us onshore doesn’t hurt either.
Time and time again, we’ll hear seasoned safari-goers rhapsodize about the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans, our final destination. We encountered three safari-focused travel advisors during our visit and heard some version of the same praise: “Makgadikgadi is a part of Botswana that travelers don't often visit, but should.” So, logically, I had asked once mid-dinner, “What makes it different from the others?”
Very earnestly he responded, “Oh, my dear, it’s a completely different but enthralling experience you’ll ever encounter.” Anticipation was high as we touched down the day after.
AN OTHERWORLDLY EXPERIENCE
Operating annually from April to October by Natural Selection and Uncharted Africa, San Camp sits at the edge of the mysterious Makgadikgadi Salt Pans, one of the largest salt flats on Earth, in the heart of the Kalahari Desert. It isn't a place for frills and fluffiness, and it isn’t just about the wildlife-watching either. It’s about the atmosphere and the ethereal surroundings, where you disappear into a remote
world, a million miles from glowing screens and fruitthemed devices, where the 360-degree panoramas are so vast, you can see the curvature of the earth.
Our room at San Camp isn’t just a room at all—it’s more like home. Within the beautiful, billowing white tents lie colonial furnishing and plush interiors: enormous fourposters draped in crisp cotton and feather-soft blankets raised high above Persian rugs. Mahogany writing desks and leather armchairs contrast the rugged surroundings, and there’s a lazy day bed just outside, perfect for an afternoon of view-gazing. Ensuite bathrooms have hot, running water showers and flush loos, and there’s plenty of water in the elegant copper jugs and basins. The entire camp runs on solar power and when darkness falls, you’ll find lanterns scattered around to light the way.
Every experience is special in San Camp. As soon as we arrived in the afternoon, we drove quad bikes across the endless salt pans, with absolutely nothing but the horizon. A few moments later, we are surprised with a candlelit dinner underneath the stars. The deception continues; thinking that we’re being driven back to camp, we arrive instead at an outdoor fly camp. Brass beds prepared with linens set out under the vast Milky Way. And I have to say, not jumping in is probably my biggest regret from the entire trip.
Game drives comprise of horseback riding across the desert to interact with a family of cheeky meerkats, being on the Land Cruiser and seeing herds of zebras and wildebeests, and spending time with the Zu’hoasi Bushmen, the Kalahari’s original inhabitants. We embark on a desert walk with them as they exhibit their tracking and hunting skills. We also learn how to make a fire with nothing more than sticks, grass, and dung. At night, sightings of nocturnal species are always exciting—we spotted the elusive brown hyena exiting his den. We look up and realize that Botswana’s diamonds are in the skies after all. What a day.
As I peruse the impressive wine list, or slip into the crisp sheets in the palatial room, or drift away overlooking vast nothingness, it’s difficult not being a little self-conscious about enjoying such decadence in the middle of the Bush. It’s all part of the ethos of companies such as Wilderness Safaris and Natural Selection, who stand by “responsible luxury”, backed up by substantive initiatives and impact. Both firms are eco-friendly in the truest sense. Charity and conservation of wildlife are their central beliefs; their partnerships with different local communities, schools, governments, and organizations help raise awareness about sustainable conservation and protect important areas resulting in longterm benefits.
As I find myself back in the city, I think about how blessed I am to have experienced this trip with my family. To have been able to celebrate my father’s upcoming birthday in an extraordinary place such as Africa is an item on my bucket list that has definitely been ticked off. And although we didn’t see the nearly extinct rhino, I pretend to hear the faint sounds of wildlife as I dream of being part of the Bush once more.