PASSIONATE PALERMO
Cathedrals and Palaces, History and Cuisine, Piazzas and Markets
Nine traveling buddies midway through our twelve-day Sicilian holiday suffered instant withdrawal symptoms of various intensities. We were perplexed how it happened— but it did almost simultaneously. The reason: we had earlier said our goodbyes to Villa Hamalia after six made-in-paradise days.
This piece of heaven-on-earth by the fishing village of Itala was perched high on a hill, overlooking a bay, when on a clear day—we literally could imagine the silhouette of what seemed to be the end of the boot of Italy's geography.
It was the country home of the Marchese Calamara, built in the 1900s, but has since been renovated. Today it boasted of ten spacious suites with private verandas, a grand dining area, a warm living room, an infinity pool surrounded by a not-aleaf-in-the-ground lawn amidst 10 hectares of citrus groves.
But it was time for a final farewell. A two-hour drive led us to the town of Cefalu, situated by the Tyrrhenian Sea and Strait of Messina Coast—but we simply did not know where one ended and the other began. However, there was an all-important everyone-involved on-going car race—with engines continuously loudly revving everywhere, and the entire population cheering—so we decided to proceed through narrow winding country roads to Sant'Ambrogio, a quiet walking hamlet by the edge of a cliff.
GETTING OUR SPIRITS UP
We quickly settled down at the Osteria Bacchus, a pop and son diner named after the Roman God of wine, fertility, and theater. With a panoramic vista of the still blue sea, where solitary yachts would cross in perfect cadence, we sat by a terrace with overhead trellis, not a cloud in the sky with the sun piercing through the vines to produce a dramatic sol y sombra effect.
As we scrambled for what was available, the chef proudly declared that he himself was the menu, as he rattled off all the bounties and blessings of the sea for the day. But before individual choices were made, he decided for us—he knew what was best,
after all—and we truly appreciated the act. In quick succession, several bottles of wines and cans of sodas appeared together with some picas. The fiesta was well on its way.
We feasted on lobsters, crabs, prawns, mussels, and a large sea bass, baked with whole red tomatoes and huge sliced potatoes all drizzled with copious amounts of olive oil. And naturally some pasta—for, after all, we were in Italy. To say it was delicious was an absolute understatement. It was the first time we finally broke into laughter for the day.
With renewed positive vibes, we happily resumed our quest for Palermo, the capital of the island of Sicily and the venue where some scenes of The Godfather were filmed.
Palco Rooms and Suites, our bed and breakfast—a misnomer we unanimously agreed on upon check-in—was in the center of town across the Massimo Theatre, one of the greatest opera houses of Europe. Centuries-old Italian manor house formerly the residence of an aristocratic family, we expected more dated interiors. But our expectations were blown away by each uniquely designed spacious suites and rooms with modern amenities and contemporary art pieces. It was such a pleasant surprise!
A TASTE OF THE ISLAND
The first activity the next day was a morninglong Street Food Walking Tour, aided by our local tour guide Angelo, an articulate, witty and humorous old soul of a man in his mid-20s.
We were impressed with the markets, especially the bustling Mercato del Capo. Due to the freshest and largest produce available, to include rounded eggplants, cabbage bigger than heads of egotistic persons, bright red cherry tomatoes, bunches of broccoli, plump red, yellow and green bell peppers, paté di olive verdi, slices and wheels of cheeses, crema di pistachio, dried oregano, chili and other hard-tofind herbs and spices.
We tried a selection of Sicilian finger food. Standouts included Canollo, a pastry filled with sweet ricotta cheese and chocolate; Cazzilli, fried mashed potato and egg; and Panelle, Italian chickpea fritters. But our favorite was Arancini, stuffed rice balls coated with bread crumbs then deep-fried. An assortment of fillings included hams, mozzarellas and meat sauces.
We passed by seen-better-days edifices with balconies and huge portals that looked more like gates. Even streetside walls had eye-catching graffiti art.
Some abandoned buildings started to show signs of neglect, had doors and windows full-on cemented and sealed to refrain the unwanted to permanently camp on.
PALERMO’S MARVELOUS SIGHTS AND WONDERS
By the afternoon, we moved on to the most impressive Palermo Cathedral, erected in 1185 on top of an earlier Byzantine basilica. It is considered an architectural complex distinct due to various influences and styles brought about by multiple renovations and restorations, the latest of which was done in the 18th century.
We found our way to the south side, with its famous portico in Gothic-Catalan flair, currently considered as the main entrance. Among the several columns, one pillar from the original structure and the mosque that followed was pointed out, for it contained a Qur'an verse engraved on it.
The Presbytery, the High Altar, is a beautiful sight to behold, with lapis lazuli, agate, jaspers, and petrified wood. In the niches of the apse were statues of the apostles, with busts of angels right above them. A jaw-dropping fresco completed the awesome sight to marvel.
On each side were altars split into different sections. Of note was the Chapel of the Relics, behind an iron gate, with St. Cosma's tomb slab as the centerpiece, while on top was a gilded wooden urn that carried the remains of St. Mamilianus, a 5th century AD martyr and a bishop of Palermo.
Curiously, crossing through the church was the Sundial Meridian Line, which was a brazen rod in the middle of a marble strip depicting the 12 signs of the zodiac. The peeping sunrays through the small hole in the ceiling reflected the current sun sign of the month.
Another notable display was Gagini's Holy Water Font, with two bas-reliefs from the episodes of the Bible: the baptism of Jesus and the Blessing of the Baptismal font, topped by a sculpture of the Angel of Annunciation.
Our next stop was the oldest royal residence in Europe, the Royal Palace of Palermo—the Palazzo dei Normanni— the private domicile of the Kings of Sicily.
The Maqueda Courtyard consisted three rows of arcades, which overlooked a green ground floor.
On the first floor was the Palatine Chapel, a melting pot of Byzantine, Islamic and Latin art influences as seen through its designs, uniquely enhanced by mosaics. Dedicated to the apostle Saint Peter, it likewise depicted the most important gospels while the dome boasted of an image of Christ Pantocrator.
The erstwhile royal apartments were transformed into different halls of interest such as the all-frescoed seventh-century Montalto Halls which later became the venue for the summer Parliament hearings. Meanwhile, the Hercules Hall, decked with chandeliers and paintings, was where the Regional Assembly of Sicily would gather.
Together with a series of nine religious and civic structures, commonly clustered as ArabNorman Palermo and the Cathedral Churches of Cefalù and Monreale, it was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The following day took a more relaxed pace for individual me time, alone time. I had an early start to the Chiesa di San Giuseppe dei Teatini, built in 1738, and regarded as one of the most outstanding examples of Sicilian Baroque in the
city, where I joined a soon-to-start mass before the center niche with a statue of San Gaetano, the founder of the Order of Theatines.
The large yellow and blue dome above, its surrounding columns and the overwhelming amount of side altars adorned with frescoes, have made it a favorite house of prayer among the local community.
I then headed for the Quattro Canti, an octagonal plaza, designed in the 18th century by Italian Architect Giulio Lasso. The near-identical façade of four Baroque mini palaces singly featured a sculpture for each of the four seasons, and the next stage had the four Spanish kings during their reigns in Sicily, while the highest level hosted the female saints of the city.
This area is lauded as one of the prime cases of urban planning in the region and some even claim it as the heart of Palermo.
I walked over and spent some time at the Piazza Pretoria, the town square which boasted of a large fountain, flanked by sixteen nude statues that consisted of humans and mythical creatures such as nymphs, mermaids, and satyrs. It is bordered by the Church of Saint Catherine, the Town Hall, and two baronian palaces, namely Palazzo Bonocore and Palazzo Bordonaro— all deserving of extended visits.
TO MORE BREATHTAKING ADVENTURES
I reunited with the other eight traveling buddies together for dinner at A' Cuncuma, a Michelin-star restaurant, where the chef's assistant perfectly described each and every dish, taking into consideration our diets and allergies. In the end, we were served a specially curated spread, capped off with a decadent chocolate cake. It was my birthday and I made a wish and blew the lights off a single candle.
Returning from a full day, discovering the wonders of that special mountain revelation known as Erice—which deserves a travelogue all by itself—we had our despedida dinner at Gagini Social Restaurant, yet another Michelin-star resto, with a concept that mixed food, art, music, and fashion for the diners.
We dined al fresco on candle-lit tables, where we tried out the Chef Tasting Menu, described by Chef Gioacchino Gaglio himself with "Unusual atmospheres, fine flavors, and immortal memories. Here, there is my ride toward the savour."
With excellent food and equally splendid wine, we leisurely spent the evening under the stars as we chatted and laughed, creating more memories to look back on in the many years to come.