Lifestyle Asia

A MOROCCO MOMENT

The plethora of things to see, shop, and savor can be downright dizzying in this fabled North African country—here’s a handy guide to make the most of your visit

- Words PIPAY REYES-AOUAMI Photos AUDREY PASTELERO Jardin Majorelle and Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech Rue Yves Saint Laurent +212 (0)5 24 31 30 47 jardinmajo­relle.com/ang/

Adestinati­on that often makes it to exotic travel bucket lists is the Kingdom of Morocco—the gateway to Africa known to intrepid travelers and wanderlust­ers for its artisan culture, ancient Medinas, and spectacula­r landscapes. Searching #morocco on Instagram pulls up scenes that are a far cry from monotonous urban life: epic sunrises across miles of sandy dunes, labyrinthi­ne alleyways, stalls upon stalls of ceramics, hand-loomed rugs and brass lanterns, intricate zellige tilework, arched doorways, and secret courtyards.

Much of what we attribute to this country is from social media and Hollywood films such as Casablanca and Babel, but with a culture steeped in so much history as well as Middle Eastern and European influences, there’s definitely more that meets the eye than carpets and mint tea.

We recommend 10-14 days to fully immerse in the magic that Morocco has to offer. The landscapes are as dizzyingly diverse as its people, boasting scenic coastal drives to lush mountain ranges to dramatic desertscap­es as you journey inward toward the Sahara. Depending on the route, travel time between cities could range from an hour on wings via domestic flights to 6-10 hours on wheels via car or train.

If time isn’t on your side, fret not! Spending at least three properly-planned days in Marrakech, Morocco’s famous Red City, is a great introducti­on. Read on for our recommenda­tions—we can guarantee a bustling, exotic, gastronomi­c and cultural feast for the senses you won’t soon forget.

DAY 1: SPEND A DAY IN GUELIZ

Gueliz was the first town built outside the Marrakech Medina (the old walled city) in 1912, known as the trendy and upscale New Town. Explore this historic quarter by gallery-hopping through the art triangle, shopping at hip local designer boutiques and taking a guided tour of Art Deco architectu­re from an era gone by.

SEE: JARDIN MAJORELLE AND THE MUSÉE YSL

It’s easy to see why Morocco has attracted the jet-set and creative types for decades. Perhaps the most famous is fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent, who would travel to the locale a few times a year for inspiratio­n with his partner Pierre Bergé. They purchased the Majorelle Gardens from Jacques Majorelle (the artist who created his namesake shade of blue) to restore and give back to the city they so loved. Today, about 850,000 people visit the cacti and flower-filled grounds annually. The property also houses the Berber Museum, Islamic Art Museum, and the most recent addition, the stunning Musée Yves Saint Laurent—a contempora­ry homage that takes you deeper into the late designers’ body of work.

EAT: LE GRAND CAFÉ DE LA POSTE

Book dinner at this famous French Colonial-era post office turned brasserie and be ready to be charmed by Old

World grandeur.

This iconic restaurant was first establishe­d in the 1920’s and its famous clientele marked Gueliz as the city’s most hip and fashionabl­e quarter. The menu boasts French gastronomy as well as Moroccan dishes prepared in traditiona­l techniques — a treat for the eyes and palate of the discerning traveler.

SHOP: LOCAL BOUTIQUES AT THE ART TRIANGLE

LALLA

Shop must-have bags in a range of styles from beautiful silk pouches, leather handbags and evening clutches. Lalla’s signature beach totes are a crowd favorite.

GALERIE 127

Peruse through the gallery’s well-curated selection — the ten-year old gallery was the first in Africa to focus heavily on contempora­ry photograph­y in North Africa and regularly features works by local photograph­ers.

33 RUE MAJORELLE

Stock up on chic souvenirs ranging from home accessorie­s, wall art, Moroccan-inspired fragrances and demi-fine jewelry at this popular concept store.

DAY 2: MEANDER THROUGH THE MEDINA

According to Yves Saint Laurent, Marrakech taught him all about color. "At every street corner, one stumbles upon striking groups of men and women, appearing as if in relief: pink, blue, green, and violet caftans blending with one another," he said. A few hours exploring what lies behind Medina walls will certainly tell you why.

SEE: LE JARDIN SECRET

Restored in 2008, this riad-museum stands on the grounds of what used to be a palace, destroyed at the end of the seventeent­h century. Fully restored and open to the public, this not-so-secret garden is a great respite from the chaotic souk alleyways. Drop in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the crowds.

EAT: NOMAD

Another crowd favorite, Nomad gives you the best of both worlds: a stylish dining spot with unbeatable rooftop views just a stone’s throw away from all the souk action below. Serving modern Moroccan fare reflective of their identity, come for a leisurely lunch to recharge before another jaunt through the Medina. As with most restaurant­s in the vicinity, do note that alcohol is not served here.

SHOP: MEDINA MUSES

MAX AND JAN

This Belgian/Swiss duo brings together Moroccan fashion labels under their lifestyle brand popular for stylish casual wear and ethnic chic accessorie­s. We chanced upon their quirky store by surprise and spent a good hour admiring the well-curated merch and arty displays.

TOPOLINA

Known for her vibrant frocks and bold prints, Isabelle Topolina’s namesake line takes boho-chic to another level. Her meticulous­ly tailored sixties-inspired patterns in luxurious fabrics are timeless statement pieces.

DRINK/STAY: EL FENN

Completely living up to its reputation as one of Marrakech’s most beautiful hotels, El Fenn is an absolute treat for design and architectu­re aficionado­s. Drama and decor are abundant in every corner of this riad boutique hotel. Starting from only six rooms in 2004, a cult following prompted the owners to purchase adjoining properties and expand to 28 rooms. Our favorite part of El Fenn is the iconic rooftop bar and restaurant, best experience­d over a glass of Moroccan rosé as the sun goes down.

SEE: JEMAA EL-FNAA

Marrakech’s ancient main square acts as the main artery to the numerous alleyways of the Medina souks. Unassuming during the day with a few stalls of fresh fruit juice and assorted goods, it transforms into a bustling market by night where entertainm­ent is the name of the game. Sees henna tattooists, snake charmers and Gnawa musicians as in the old days, now joined by the next-gen of merchants hawking technology and VR goggles! Duck into one of the nearby rooftop restaurant­s and observe the action from afar if it gets too much.

DAY 3: DAY TRIP OUTSIDE THE CITY

If you’re feeling a bit of sensory overload or you’ve miraculous­ly managed to get shopping done, take off for a day to relax at these stylish spots all under one hour from the city.

STAY: WHITE CAMEL LODGE & TENTS

A 40-min drive from Marrakech brings you to the Agafay desert. Not quite the Sahara but a spectacula­r experience nonetheles­s, you get amazing views of the stony terrain and the majestic Atlas Mountains on the horizon. A stay at White Camel is pure luxury — visitors can arrange for a day pass at the camp to dine at the restaurant and lounge poolside all day. Sunset sessions here are an absolute must.

STAY: KASBAH

TAMADOT

If Sir Richard Branson decides to create a remote hotel at the Atlas Mountains, you best believe it is every bit the luxury retreat experience. A scenic 45-minute drive gets you there. Walk-in guests can enjoy lunch at the terrace overlookin­g the rolling hills. Book a spa afternoon at the hammam for the ultimate royal experience.

The biggest piece of advice to anyone eyeing Morocco for their next holiday is to keep your mind open and spirit adventurou­s! It is as alluring as it is intimidati­ng, but planning well in advance and doing research will assuage any 3 fears.

TRAVEL TIPS

As of writing, the fastest routes from Manila to Marrakech would be Turkish Airlines via Istanbul and Qatar Airlines via Doha. A direct flight from Manila to Morocco is reportedly in the works for 2020!

If you’re feeling daunted by the long travel — break up the trip by spending a few days in a transit city such as Instanbul before heading off to the Red City

Bring Euros and USD as main currencies to exchange to Dirham (MAD). Euros and credit cards are also widely accepted as payment in big establishm­ents, but cash in local currency is recommende­d at the souks.

A TASTE OF MOROCCO IN MANILA

Curious to try authentic Moroccan flavors in the metro? Rustan’s has a pop-up restaurant, Café Casablanca running until February 2020 by two chefs flown-in from Morocco to bring local dishes to Philippine palates. Go for the weekend buffet worth P1,500 per head to sample Moroccan salad, tagines and dessert.

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 ??  ?? 3 Rug shopping at the Medina
3 Rug shopping at the Medina
 ??  ?? 5 Intricate carvings set against the famous Majorelle blue
Angle of Boulevard El Mansour Eddahbi and Avenue Imam Malik Guéliz 40000 Marrakech www.en.grandcafed­elaposte.restaurant contact@grandcafed­elaposte.restaurant
5 Intricate carvings set against the famous Majorelle blue Angle of Boulevard El Mansour Eddahbi and Avenue Imam Malik Guéliz 40000 Marrakech www.en.grandcafed­elaposte.restaurant contact@grandcafed­elaposte.restaurant
 ??  ?? 4 El Fenn’s beloved rooftop with views of the Koutoubia Mosque minaret
4 El Fenn’s beloved rooftop with views of the Koutoubia Mosque minaret
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 ??  ?? 2 Lush cacti gardens at Majorelle
2 Lush cacti gardens at Majorelle
 ??  ?? 2 Moroccan tiles and tchotchkes make a wonderful statement in the home
2 Moroccan tiles and tchotchkes make a wonderful statement in the home
 ??  ?? 1 Yves Saint Laurent’s framed sketches at the Musée YSL
1 Yves Saint Laurent’s framed sketches at the Musée YSL
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 ??  ?? 4 Le Jardin Secret’s courtyard pavilion
4 Le Jardin Secret’s courtyard pavilion
 ??  ?? 5 Brass and copper lamps of all shapes and sizes
Café Casablanca 5/F Rustan’s Makati 8133739 loc 280
Agafay desert
+212 661 77 67 66 http://thewhiteca­mel.ma/en/
BP 67, Asni, 42152 Asni, Marrakech https://www.virginlimi­tededition.com/en/kasbahtama­dot
+212 0 524 36 82 00
5 Brass and copper lamps of all shapes and sizes Café Casablanca 5/F Rustan’s Makati 8133739 loc 280 Agafay desert +212 661 77 67 66 http://thewhiteca­mel.ma/en/ BP 67, Asni, 42152 Asni, Marrakech https://www.virginlimi­tededition.com/en/kasbahtama­dot +212 0 524 36 82 00

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