Breathtaking destinations: Vigan, Boracay, El Nido, and Siargao
VIGAN’s treasures lies in the city ’s well-preserved traditions—authentic local cuisine, genuine hospitality, and rich culture and history
Manila, even with the luxury of its many conveniences, can be a bit too stressful at times—thanks to the perpetual traffic and high-population density problem that continues to be unsolved. A break from the monotonous views of towering skyscrapers and halted vehicles in EDSA would be heavenly when your time affords it, and a quick and convenient flight to your destination of choice proves to be therapeutic especially when needed.
Far up north is one of the Philippines’ not-so-secret havens. Vigan, the capital of the province of Ilocos Sur, is a national treasure that continues to flourish for preserving its customs and traditions. Fittingly called the Heritage City, sett pavements and colonial-era architecture not only make for scenic sights that you would never see in the highly-urbanized business districts of Manila but also tell incredible tales of its glorious past. Distance has proven to be helpful in this city’s case—escaping the clutches of commercialization and demonstrating that historic places like this can embrace modernization without losing its identity.
Separated from Luzon by a river that has since been silted up, Vigan was a thriving coastal community back in the 16th century—attracting Chinese traders who traveled farther inward the island for the unique products of the mountain provinces. A cultural
amalgamation of two of the world’s greatest kingdoms at the time soon followed. China (who has established a rich trading route in the region) and Spain (at the height of its colonization) would find themselves merging its many traditions perfectly, as evidenced by the elite Chinese creole families that have risen and withstood the sands of time.
INTO THE WILD
Lifestyle Asia’s Editor in Chief, Dong Ronquillo, recently celebrated his milestone birthday in Vigan. Narvacan City Mayor Chavit Singson obliged Dong and his invited guests—flying the entire group in his private plane and accommodating everyone in his private residences, the aptly named Forbidden Village. Chavit, who has a beloved kingly stature, was once the Governor of the province. Borne from two families that have dominated the north for generations, he has been an omnipresent figure in the country’s political landscape and has ingeniously used his influence to bring tourism not only to Vigan but to the Philippines as well.
One of the locals’ favorite developments of his is the Baluarte Zoo, where aside from the zoological park, his former residence and his hunting trophy room stand. Unlike the Forbidden Village, the zoo is open to
the public. A wide variety of vendors line the streets, selling food, toys, and other native products. It was Chavit’s idea to let the people do their business inside the vicinity, providing employment for the community.
Animal attractions of all kinds can be found within the park, including giant cement statues of dinosaurs. It was a charming spectacle. Front row seats at the zoo’s popular animal show allowed a fantastic view of the amazing exhibition of his wildlife collection—a parade of exotic birds, reptiles, and mammals performing extraordinary feats. We were also shown his famous tigers and were given the chance to get our photos taken beside it.
A quick drive brought us uphill to his trophy room, where his prized assemblage of taxidermy is kept. Heads of wildebeests, antelopes, and wapitis are lined up, hung on the walls. There are also large animals: a lion on the prowl, an elephant in its full glory, and a crocodile proudly showing its teeth, among others. It also doubles as an art gallery as several works of art such as photographs and portraits of the former governor are displayed. Further in the tour, we were taken to his previous home where a white lion was resting just outside (with wardens, of course). Another set of photos were taken before we proceeded to the last and definitely most awaited part of our tour—feeding the giraffes. We were given an hour, feeding the gentle beasts with branches of leaves amid the changing colors of the horizon.
WHERE THE OLD WORLD MEETS THE NEW
Later in the afternoon, we arrived at the historic Calle Crisologo, where the cobblestone streets and pre-war houses paint a beautiful picture of life from decades ago. We rode calesas along these streets, with the clickety-clack of the horse’s hooves blending harmoniously with the cacophony of street talk—hawkers selling local delicacies and people looking for bargains. And as the last
traces of the sun’s light faded, the yellow light of the street lamps came into view. It is a scenic view. And even with the noise of the horses, automobiles, and people in the busy street, there is something calming in the atmosphere—as you see how the past seamlessly joins the present.
At Casa Caridad, we marveled at how splendid the old house was preserved and restored. Built in the 1800s, each corner tells a story from different eras and paints a clear picture of how life was at the time. You’ll find a well on an upper floor, an immaculate pre-war bath, antiques, and a vast collection of glassware that date back to the 1940s. The house even uses its original light switches. The architectural feat took two and a half years to finish.
The food is just as exciting as Vigan’s street life. The day we arrived we were brought to Casa Vicente were we feasted on homemade Filipino food—fried fish, pork and chicken adobo, and a selection of vegetable dishes that not only made for a great-tasting meal but also gave everyone a warm Ilocano welcome. I took my first bite of authentic Vigan empanada that day. The savory filling encased in that distinct orange shell and dipped in sour and spicy vinegar is heavenly with every bite. I had two. In the morning we were treated to Vigan longganisa, a pork sausage with a strong garlicky flavor. It is a breakfast staple in the region and a delicious one at that.
Declared a World UNESCO Heritage Site and soon after, UNESCO World Heritage City, Vigan has also been recognized as one of the New7Wonders Cities, alongside Beirut, Doha, Durban, Havana, Kuala Lumpur, and La Paz. Surviving decades of war, calamities, and the ever-present threats of human overpopulation, it is a perfect example of how a city cannot simply move forward into the future without remembering its glorious past. As Austrian composer Gustav Mahler once said, “Tradition is not the worship of ashes, but the preservation of fire.”