A FILIPINA'S LOVE AFFAIR WITH SOURDOUGH
NICOLE SERVER-PAWLUKOJC continues to impress with, her most promising venture yet
Almost everyone loves lists—and I am no exception! In addition to an easy way to digest information where articles may be accessed at breakneck speed, it is an accepted and intuitive media format that satisfies one’s curiosity about who made it and sadly, who did not.
Other litanies are just for information, but some go more in-depth into one’s lives and their experiences—say, a snapshot of their being, if you will.
One list, in particular, Lifestyle Asia’s Game Changers 2018:
The 30 Millennials Making a Difference in the World highlighted several of our country’s most promising individuals and their future goals. A year later, we tend to wonder—where are they now? Have they become more successful? Did they live up to everyone’s expectations? The bottom line is: did they achieve their dreams?
Meet Nicole Server-Pawlukojc, a part of this list, who has gone over and beyond what was foretold.
Self-described as curious and adventurous, creative and straightforward, the passionate Manila-born Nicole was always encircled by food—glorious food—as far as she can recall.
She loved to cook even as a child and she would try to sneak into the kitchen and politely ask if she could lend a hand.
With no one interested in cooking within the immediate family, she teased in a lighthearted manner that her sole connection was that her grandma's brother is married to the Glenda Barretto, the established restaurant pioneer and caterer par excellence, the force behind Via Mare’s 50 years of success. Admittedly, they are all foodies. The close-knit clan gathered for Sunday lunches over at their grandfather's place. Together with her extended family, they would huddle up around a table laden with wonderful food, aimlessly chatting and sharing stories as they caught up on each others' lives shared with concern, care and love.
A proud alumna of the Assumption College, she began her formal culinary education, where she earned her four-year degree from the De La Salle-College of Saint Benilde, with an apprenticeship at the Costigliole d’Asti Italian Culinary Institute for Foreigners in Italy, which gave her the opportunity to intern at her first-ever commercial kitchen, the Ristorante La Fermata, a one Michelin star restaurant.
Her main takeaway was the chef's life was definitely suited for her—she could not wait to get out of the four corners of the lecture classrooms and food laboratories to start her career.
Fresh out of college, supplemented by brief courses at the Societa Dante Alighieri Comitato di’Manila, Nicole worked at Brasserie CiCou, then at Circolo Golf Bogono, Chez Karine Patisserie, and at the Impressions at Maxims Hotel, home of one of the finest French food in the metropolis.
She eventually signed up with Noma in Copenhagen, Denmark, which gave her the most intense experience. She learned how to transform the simplest of ingredients into the most delicate of tastes. During her stint in 2014, Nicole met Bart, her husband-tobe, a butcher who specializes in meat fermentation, a cheesemaker, and a trained chef.
Mielcke & Hurtigkarl is where she spent more of her young career. Nicole was promoted to Senior Sous Chef as she, together with her mentors, worked their way up to be recognized by the White Guide Denmark 2018’s 3rd best Restaurant and 6th within the Nordic countries.
Throughout these years, she has met and worked with a number of global culinary influencers, with an impressive honor roll to include Cyrille Soenen, Rene Redzepi, Jakob Mielke, Christian Puglisi, Matt Orlando, Chad Robertson, Massimo Bottura, Will Goldfarb, Anita Klemmensen, and Dan Barber.
After having lived in Copenhagen for so long—the couple yearned for real sourdough which was exceptionally difficult to find for some reason.
Fuelled by their love for sourdough, the living bread, they decided to move to Kilkenny, where it would be apt to show what true bread is. And thus, the couple opened Arán Bakery & Bistro..
Arán, which means bread in ScottishGaelic, is an artisan bakery, café, and bistro nestled in the heart of Kilkenny, a medieval Irish town with religious roots and an impressive hub of arts and crafts. Just a tenminute walk from the main street, the eatery can sit 38 patrons at a time and exuded a very casual and fun work environment.
“There is substantial trust between individuals in Danish workplaces and a true sense of equality. It’s not an uncommon sight to see Bart or myself cleaning coffee cups so that the custodian doesn’t have to. It's an indication of the high level of mutual respect between colleagues, regardless of level in an organization.”
As fate would have it, they happened to be located amidst the most amazing mills in the Bennetsbridge area. They source their Purple Wheat and Ølands Wheat from Tom Butler, Spelt from Will Gabbot and White Rye from various farmers, who all raise local heritage grains which produced sterling quality in endless quantities.