AT THE HEART OF THE MARLBOROUGH WINE REGION
An educational visit to one of New Zealand’s magnificent vineyards proved to be an unforgettable experience unlike any other
About 12 hours, two plane rides away from Manila is Blenheim, New Zealand—a place I hadn't heard of until Moët Hennessy’s wine brand, Cloudy Bay invited me for a visit to their vineyard. What is in Blenheim? It is probably the world’s most peaceful and refreshing place I have ever been. With vast estates of beautiful wineries and landscapes, Blenheim houses one of the world’s best vineyards.
Blenheim is part of New Zealand’s Marlborough District, and is a short plane ride away from Auckland. This particular location is known for its wine production, more specifically its Sauvignon Blanc. One of the most storied vineyards in the area is Cloudy Bay.
Established in 1985, Cloudy Bay was one of the first vineyards to set up a winery in the district. Back then, it was unimaginable to grow a vineyard there; but Cloudy Bay’s founder David Hohnen believed in the land’s potential. It was one of the first five vineyards to be established in the area. The vineyard is named after a body of water of the same name, discovered by Captain James Cook in 1770 who named it Cloudy Bay because of the sediment contained in the water.
Apart from its signature Sauvignon Blanc, Cloudy Bay has gained traction for its development of regional wines, which has helped distinguish the Marlborough District—and New Zealand by extension—as a quiet force in the wine industry. Its reputation of excellence is what captured the attention of Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy Groups, the world’s biggest luxury conglomerate, and the two joined forces in 2003 through LVMH’s champagne Veuve Clicquot.
SEE, SMELL, AND SIP
With such an impressive history behind it, I was excited for what was in store. After a quick overnight stop in Auckland, we arrived in Blenheim on Valentine’s week to spend a couple of days in the vineyard. Even before we got to explore Cloudy Bay and its selection of wines, the picturesque views were enough to make me fall in love with the place. The postcards don’t lie. The hills and valleys of Marlborough are as breathtaking as they get, complemented by the freshest air you will ever breathe.
The first order of business was lunch at Jack’s Raw Bar, Cloudy Bay’s restaurant on the property. We were served an assortment of fresh clams, baos, ceviche, and the most refreshing soba, all paired with Cloudy Bay’s wines—it’s never too early to have a glass or two or even a bottle of one these fine wines, right? I was immediately enamored with Cloudy Bay’s Pelorous, one of Cloudy Bay’s signature wines.
After lunch, it was time to take a tour of their different vineyards. Here, I learned that not only do the grapes need a certain balance of sunlight and temperature, but that the space between each row of vines affects its growth and water requirements. Exploring the vineyard is a peaceful experience, taking in the sun and the breeze in a vast expanse—of course, I did not forget to wear the right outfit for its picturesque landscapes.
While walking through the vineyard, Cloudy Bay’s vineyard Operations Manager John Flanagan expounded on what makes the Marlborough District suitable for building vineyards. The highland soil, for one, is rich with clay, which has a profound effect on the taste of Cloudy Bay’s Pinot Noir. “Here, we do really see the expression of the soil coming through in the wine,” Flanagan says, “There’s much more texture to it, much more depth, (and even) a little bit spicy.” He adds that the Pinot Noir grown in the valley below, which has more stones in its soil, results in a “thinner” wine, which is more suited for blending. “You really see the difference between Pinot Noir grown here versus Pinot Noir grown five kilometers away.”
The sunlight and temperature, as I mentioned, also play a big part in the wine-making process. New Zealand’s high sunshine hours, according to Flanagan, helps ripen the grapes to the level required. Then, at night, they get cool temperatures of about 10 degrees, which then cools the fruit and concentrates its flavor even more.
So how do these wines fare? The vineyard itself produces a wide variety of wines that New Zealand is known for. First, as I mentioned earlier, is the Sauvignon Blanc: this is the wine that basically introduced New Zealand as a great wine producer to the world. Described as “vineyards in a bottle”, Cloudy Bay’s Sauvignon Blanc exudes freshness, purity, and boldness. As it matures, this wine expresses more savory notes of warm hay and toast, “taking on a gently honeyed character.”
Cloudy Bay’s Pinot Noir, as mentioned earlier, reflects the rich soil it is grown in. Balanced and lively, richly fruited with complex, savory notes and a silky texture, it is the stuff of dreams. Their Chardonnay, on the other hand, is a reflection of Marlborough’s two soil types, clay and stony. It expresses ripe stone fruit characteristics from the stony soil, while the clay soil imbues a “citrusfocused elegance.”
Part of what makes Cloudy Bay’s wines so distinct is that the winery employs a blending committee. They ensure that the product that gets shipped out of Marlborough is nothing short of sublime. Estate Director Yang Shien shared that they have six people on this committee: five technical people and one marketing person. “We try to have one normal person in the committee,” he jokes.
Cloudy Bay's blended wines are not any less superior than of the aforementioned wines. In fact, my favorite from Cloudy Bay’s portfolio is on this list: Pelorous. Named after the famous Risso’s dolphin Pelorous Jack, this wine is a blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir that results in a fresh and cool sparkling wine. And, as we experienced in the welcome lunch at Jack’s Raw Bar, perfect for pairing with New Zealand’s exquisite cuisine.
Next on Cloudy Bay’s roster is Te Koko (also one of my favorites from the trip), which is a 100% Sauvignon Blanc made with fruit from only four blocks in Marlborough. What makes these four blocks special is that they produce a riper and more concentrated expression of Sauvignon Blanc. Te Wahi, on the other hand, is made from 100% Pinot Noir from Cloudy Bay’s Northburn and Calvert vineyards. Meaning “the place” in Maori, Te Wahi is a powerful wine with an opulent dark berry fruit core. As it matures, it brings out notes of warm spices and forest floor. Definitely a must-try for cozy nights in.
THE FULL CLOUDY BAY EXPERIENCE
The trip will not be complete without cruising around New Zealand’s South Islands. The charming Marlborough Sounds is composed of an extensive network of seadrowned valleys. The winding waterways are brilliant for boating, fishing, wildlife viewing and even diving in some parts. Our cruise wouldn’t be complete without feasting on fresh oysters, mussels, salmon, and clams fresh from the waters of the Marlborough Sounds paired with my favorite Cloudy Bay Pelorus Rose and Sauvignon Blanc. How I wished the day wouldn’t end.