What’s Famous in Paco
Chef Chris Locher’s My Kitchen draws diners from as far as Alabang, Makati, and La Vista
Patsy Cline’s 1961 rendition of the song “Crazy,” the top-selling jukebox song of all time, was written by the legendary singer/songwriter Willie Nelson, who was forced to sell it for $50 to support a growing family. “It paid our groceries for a week’” he told a reporter, 50 years later.
Willie’s story flashed through my mind over lunch a few days ago at Oasis Paco Park Hotel’s My Kitchen restaurant while rolling strips of Panizza over alfalfa sprouts and arugula. Chef Chris Locher, who created the dish and introduced it to the Philippines many years and several restaurants ago, explained that the menu of My Kitchen calls the creation The Original “because someone else has copyrighted the Panizza recipe and name.” Traditionally, panizza was a polenta or focaccia made from chickpea flour before Chef Chris created the recipe that he describes now as “a fine crisp dough layered with a blend of five cheeses and herbs, and perfected with favorite toppings.”
Last Monday, we had a half-half combination: Verbena (tomato and white truffle with cheese sauce topped with scallops, prawns, and sun-dried tomatoes) and Lazio (with artichoke hearts and honey-cured ham). By itself and with glasses of wine, an order of panizza would make for a light lunch for two.
Runaway Success
Chef Chris fell in love with the Philippines and its people the minute he arrived here, 23 years ago. He is now happily ensconced with his Pinoy family while turning My Kitchen into a phenomenal success.
The restaurant, across the street from the historic Paco Park, has become a favorite among discriminating connoisseurs, many of whom drive all the way from Alabang, Makati, La Vista, and beyond for multicourse a la
carte lunch or dinner. They almost always make reservations days ahead to ensure good seats. Around 150 to 200 food lovers flock to the restaurant daily.
Classic Comforts
Our small group ate family-style— sharing dishes the way Italians and Filipinos eat at home. We started with the large oasis salad of artichoke hearts, roasted peppers, capers, caramelized onions, sun-dried tomatoes, Kalamate olives, and two kinds of capers, arugula, and several types of lettuce. Homemade bread with cheese-pesto-olive oil dip was complimentary. Pesto also enriched Cappelini Beatrice lightly tossed with giant US scallops and prawns.
Tender rapini greens and pencilthin asparagus topped with ox tongue risotto and accented with Marsala-simmered meat, fresh mushrooms, and cheeses. Our seafood course had plump olive mussels from Chile, prepared with wine, garlic, and tomatoes. Simple preparation highlighted the freshness of the imported bivalves.
Grandma’s Recipe
Named after the chef’s paternal nona (grandma) is classic osso buco Maestri (veal shank stewed in wine and cream) with a twist. The traditional gremolata (lemon zest, garlic, and parsley), sprinkled as garnish, is instead incorporated while the shanks are stewing, thereby making a more subtly-enhanced gravy.
The humongous veal shank, so tender we needed no knife, sat atop a large mound of saffron-hued, creamy risotto.
Homemade Gelato
We ended the long meal with a large slice of tiramisu plus two flavors of homemade gelato: Mint Chocolate and Blueberry, perfect with My Kitchen’s own blend of coffee. My Kitchen at the Oasis Paco Park Hotel, (02) 521 2371 to 75
The menu of My Kitchen calls the panizza 'The Original ' because someone else has copyrighted the panizza recipe and name.