ONSEN AND ONWARD Paradise found in hell and heaven

It was a little bit after dusk when we touched down the runway in Fukuoka, Kyushu’s largest city, and we were whisked off to our lodgings for the night, the Hakata Excel Tokyo Hotel. Don’t be confused, Hakata is the old name for Fukuoka, and the locals, with their fondness for tradition, still call it that. Our introduction to the city began with a walk by the river on Nakasu Island and the leisurely stroll through the mid-December chilly breeze allowed us to gaze at the city’s best known symbol—Fukuoka’s famous open air food stalls (Yatai). LIKE A MIRAGE OF AN OASIS

Reminiscent of the Baywalk along Roxas Boulevard at night, numerous yatai serving yakitori, hot pot, tonkatsu, and the famous Hakata Ramen, lined the river where locals were queued, awaiting their turn to warm and fill their bellies. It was hard to imagine that by morning, there would be no visible trace of the temporary structures that could accommodate up to eight people. It seemed like a mirage of an oasis, a very delicious one at that.

The small town of Beppu, in central Oita Prefecture, was our destination the next day. Home to more than 2,500 hot springs, Beppu is best known for its “hells” or Jigoku. A quick visit to “heaven” was in order before perusing the depths of hell and we dropped by the Beppu Catholic Church, a must in every Catholic tourist’s itinerary.

Blessed with piping hot geothermal waters, Beppu boasts of its eight fiery hells—Monk’s Shaved Head Hell (Oniishibozu Jigoku), Mountain Hell (Yama Jigoku), Cooking Pot Hell (Kamado Jigoku), Demon Mountain Hell (Oniyama Jigoku), White Pond Hell (Shiraike Jigoku), Spout Hell (Tatsumaki Jigoku), Sea Hell (Umi Jigoku), and Blood Pond Hell (Chinoike Jigoku).

The road to Sea Hell was paved with lush manicured gardens and clear water ponds with tropical lilies big enough to carry small children. If it weren’t for the billowing clouds of steam in the distance heralding caution, one would be tempted to disrobe and jump into a pond of the bluest, clearest water reminiscent of paradise found. Except that it’s boiling. In fact, one of Sea Hell’s attractions are duck eggs dropped in a basket to be cooked and served hard-boiled, ready to eat.

Blood Pond Hell with its vermillion colored ponds gurgling smoke and steam is a sight that would scare anyone straight. One of Japan’s oldest hells, demons at the shop lining its entrance entices one to atone lest they be stuck in boiling clay in their company. NAKED IN THE SPRING

A bit farther inland from Beppu was Yufuin, another popular onsen resort destination. A stark contrast to modern Fukuoka, the pace of life in Yufuin was decadent and laidback, inviting one to relax amid the landscape of Mt. Yufu and the lush greenery surrounding Kinrinko Lake. Taking a leisurely stroll through the pathways around the lake, one can enjoy the charming little shops along the way, displaying local goods, crafts and sweets. Yufuin Floral Village was a delight to stumble onto. The picturesque village was something out of a fairy tale, with little cobblestone cottages featuring specialty goods of popular characters such as Peter & Friends, Alice in Wonderland, and Hello Kitty, and beloved animals such as forest owls, dogs, cats, rabbits. Bakeries, earth markets, and Grandpa’s Kitchen were also a sight to see.

Yufuin Mingeimura, the local folk craft village was just around the corner. Sake brewing, making local traditional handmade paper, glass, pottery, and the Japanese art of indigo tie-dyeing could be experienced here in the workshops they offer. As a souvenir, I brought home my very own tie-dyed handkerchief, which I had made myself by repeatedly dipping it in a vat of indigo dye in geothermal waters.

It was at the Yufuin Hotel Shuhokan where I had two of my most memorable experiences in Fukuoka—the kaiseki or a Japanese traditional multicourse meal, and bathing in an open-air onsen.

Clad in our kimonos generously provided by the hotel in our washitsus (Japanese-style room using tatami mats and futons), our group was served the Kaiseki menu specially prepared for us by the chef amid the backdrop of a glorious Mt. Yufu. Akin to a lauriat, the sequence of dishes that followed were superbly and artistically arranged. Kaiseki, I was told, was much more than simply a meal; it’s an art form that balances the taste, texture, appearance, and colors of food. Throughout the more than 10 courses served, one particularly stood out to me, the Futamono, a lidded soup dish which was composed of a clear, flavorful broth, sparse vegetables, and a lone mushroom, the most expensive ingredient in Japan. The Matsutake mushroom, it turns out, is Japan’s answer to the black truffle. No one has figured out how to farm them and they must be gathered by hand under fallen leaves at the foot of pine trees.

One cannot visit the Onsen Island of Kyushu without trying the mystical experience of bathing in an onsen. Clad in nothing but bare skin, not even cloaked in shame, one shared the open-air onsen with strangers in reverential silence. It was a cleansing and purification both of the body and soul, and one hoped that their prayers would be sent up to the heavens along with the clouds of mist and steam where the hot spring waters met with the chilly night air. It was truly a humbling experience. STRAWBERRY FIELDS AND PAPER TIED TO A STRING

Fruit picking is another popular activity in Fukuoka. From December to May, strawberry picking is at its best. But our strawberry picking adventure was cut short by Mother Nature whose volatile moods delayed the fruit’s bloom and ripening. The harvest was sparse at the Nakano Kajitsuen farm at Tanushimaru, which grow their famous sweet fruits organically. Ordinarily a pick-andeat-all-you-can affair, we were allowed to pick one ripe, plump berry each in order to give nature a chance to catch up. It certainly did not disappoint!

A short trip to ask favors from the Shinto dieties brought us to Dazaifu Tenmangu, Fukuoka’s most famous shrine. Dedicated to the spirit of scholar Sugawara Michizane who is associated with Tenjin, a deity for education, hundreds of students make pilgrimage to this shrine every year to ask for passing grades. On the other hand, a visit to the Kushida Shrine is crucial when currying favor from the god of immortality and success in business. This is where Fukuoka’s most famous festival, “Hakata Gion Yamakasa,” begins and ends, and all but two of the festival floats towering several meters high are burned as an offering after the intense race.

At both shrines, fortunes are told, after which the little pieces of paper are tied to a string asking for mitigation or just in plain gratitude to the gods. Petitions are written on wooden blocks, and prayers are offered at the main shrine with an auspicious ringing of bells, claps, low bows, and a sincere heart.

At Kumamoto Prefecture, we visited the beautiful landscaped gardens of Suizenji. The Suizenji Jojuen Garden represents the 53 stations of the Tokaido Road and took 80 years to complete. Originally built as a tea retreat almost four centuries ago due to the clean, cold water flowing from Mt. Aso via underground currents, it is now a historic site of scenic beauty whose main feature is a representation of Mt. Fuji.

The impressive grandeur of Kumamoto Castle with its unscalable stone walls and wooden overhangs designed to repel invading ninja warriors is not to be missed when visiting the area. Constructed by feudal lord and highly trained warrior Kiyomasa over 400 years ago, this is where the final battle between the samurai and the Meiji empire occurred. The film The Last Samurai is based on this battle and was actually filmed on castle grounds, and Kiyomasa is the same samurai warrior featured in Koei’s PS2 Way of the Warrior video game. THE WELCOMING GINGKO BILOBAS

Kumamoto has a delightful surprise for foodies as well in the form of Japanese vermicelli soup, better known as taipi-en. Although the dish is Chinese-styled, the noodles are made of red bean thread. It originated in Kairakuen, which is, ironically, a Chinese restaurant. This hole-in-thewall is a bit hard to find as its low-key presence seems inversely proportional to the popularity of the dish, which has since become a Kumamoto specialty.

For the indefatigable veteran shoppers out there, Kyushu offers the Tosu Premium Outlets with over 150 outlet stores that feature famous foreign and Japanese brands. Fukuoka itself, also has an impressive shopping arsenal with interconnected buildings filled with floor upon floor of shops. There’s Canal City Hakata, the city’s largest and most elaborate shopping complex. There’s Tenjin Chikagai, the city’s underground mall that connects department stores in the Tenjin area. For shops that sell more traditional arts and crafts, Kawabata Shopping Arcade is the place to go. This is Fukuoka’s oldest shopping arcade, built in the mid ’50s, and offers a charming glimpse into the city’s past while being surrounded with the more modern and tech-savvy merchandise and wares around the Tenjin area.

This convergence of the old and the new, of relaxing and rejoicing at the same time, is what a visit to Kyushu Island has in store for travelers willing to explore its pleasures. As Cebu Pacific now has a straight flight from Manila to Fukuoka, this wonderful destination has become more accessible and reachable, all in three hours. Perhaps next time, when the cherry blossoms are in full bloom, and the leaves of the gingko bilobas lined up in the streets are waving a warm welcome. Mata au hi made, dearest Kyushu! Until we meet again.