Final tribute to ‘King of Paella’

Anastacio de Alba came to the Philippines in 1952 from his native Avila, Spain to “bring to Manila a part of Spain and its cultural history.” He did more than that. By the time he died last Sunday from cardio pulmonary arrest, the Spanish chef, through his chain of Alba Restaurante Español and several other restaurants he owned and managed over the decades, had introduced generations of Filipinos to the goodness of Spanish cuisine, including 18 different paellas.

In a statement released by family members led by Alba’s chef-son Miguel de Alba to the media, they noted that their patriarch would have turned 90 on August 14. His remains lie in state at the Heritage Park’s Chapel 7 in Taguig. Chefs and admirers led by Nancy Reyes Lumen will hold the “last rites for a chef” on Thursday, Aug. 4, 8:30 p.m. Lumen is requesting participating chefs to come in their “chefs’ best and toques” for the tribute.

It’s “different when you lose a friend,” and that friend happens to be a chef, Lumen wrote on Facebook. “Somehow, your loss is more intimate because you would have shared some good tables, (and) broken bread in peace (with him),” she added. Lumen also vouched for Alba’s character as a loving father, warm friend, and generous teacher, who unselfishly taught countless others how to cook his native cuisine.

According to the Alba Restaurante Español’s website, soon after arriving in the Philippines, Alba worked for the prestigious Casino Español until he opened his first restaurant, Alba CocinaEspañol, on Isaac Peral Street, now United Nations Avenue, two years later. It was a modest eatery with only five tables to accommodate his growing clientele.

In less than a year, Alba had become a byword among connoisseurs of Spanish cuisine. He had to move to a bigger place along Florida Street, now Maria Orosa. In no time, people from politics, business, and various professions, including show business, began flocking to Alba’s expanded Manila restaurant. This prompted him to expand further by opening up several new restaurants in various locations. Apart from the original Alba Restaurante Español, he also opened Taberna Gitana, La Parilla, Patio Flamenco, and Jardin de Alba, among others.

His most celebrated and most iconic restaurant was perhaps La Mancha, which opened in 1975, at the now defunct Magallanes Commercial Center. Inspired by Spanish writer Miguel de Cervantes’ literary masterpiece Don Quijote, La Mancha’s facade featured a three-story tower with a huge windmill.

But Alba’s biggest contribution to the Philippine restaurant scene were still his paellas – all 18 of them – form the classic Valenciana, to newer flavors such as Verde for vegeterians, and “everything else in between,” the website added. The list includes Negra, Filipino, de Pato, Pollo Finas Hierbas, de Verduras, de Gambas, Arroz a la Regencia, de Cordero, Marinera, de Bacalao, de Langostinos, de Cangrejo, Tuhod y Batoc, Setas y Pesto, and Fideua.