Manila Bulletin

SIX MUST-SEE WORLD HERITAGE SITES IN INDIA

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gate only to find another impregnabl­e gate inside, wisely built to delay attackers who made it past the first line of defense. You see, Mughal Emperor Akbar originally built this fort as a military structure in 1565. Later on, it was converted into a grand palace and court by his grandson Shah Jahan, the emperor who commission­ed the Taj Mahal. The straight path leads to a courtyard and a maze of red sandstone and white-marbled buildings, forming a city within a city. According to my guide, there used to be more than 500 buildings here, but most of them were destroyed when the British colonizers used the fort as garrison. Among the most exquisite buildings are Jahangiri Mahal (palace used mainly by the wives of Akbar), Khas Mahal (an open-air edifice overlookin­g the garden, built for the women of the royal household), Musamman Burj (the ornamental pavilion of Mumtaz Mahal, whom the Taj Mahal was built for), Diwan-I Khas (Hall of Private Audience), Diwan-I-Aam (Hall of Public Audience), and Mina Masjid (Heavenly Mosque). It was in Musamman Burj where Shah Jahan spent his remaining years as a prisoner by his powergrabb­ing son, Aurangzeb. According to stories, the emperor died looking at the Taj Mahal, which can be viewed from the tower’s marbled balcony. 3.) Fatehpur Sikri (Agra)

After a 40-kilometer drive to the western part of Agra, I am whisked away by a bus to yet another heritage site, a hilltop ancient city called Fatehpur Sikri. Desperate for a son, Mughal Emperor Akbar built Fatehpur Sikri in 1556 as a homage to a saint named Shaikh Salim Chishti, whose blessing gave him three children. Shortly after its completion, the magnificen­t fortified city was made the political capital of the Mughal Empire for 15 years. In 1585, Fatehpur Sikri was abandoned due to scarcity of water and the capital was moved back to central Agra.

At first glance, one may think that the Buland Darwaza, the city’s massive gate built with red sandstone and marble, alone had wiped half of the empire’s treasury. It may take time to get past the gate, as everyone pauses by the steps to admire its carved ornamentat­ion, lofty arches, and carved verses from the Qu'ran. One of the Persian inscriptio­ns even reads “Jesus son of Mary,” which I find fascinatin­g since it is an Islamic edifice. According to my guide, the gate was built in 1575 as a triumphal arch following Emperor Akbar’s success in conquering the state of Gujarat. Inside, I am drawn to the Diwan-I Amm (public audience hall), towering over a vast colonnaded courtyard. Not as ornate as the surroundin­g buildings, the Diwan-I Amm used to be the place where the emperor interacted with the commoners and pronounced punishment for those guilty of crimes. Not far away, the Diwan-i-Khas (hall of private audience) easily catches attention with its four chattris on top and a central pillar that some of the most intricate Hindu carvings I have ever seen. Here, the emperor used to hold discourse with foreign dignitarie­s, kings, and different religious leaders. No doubt, the most eye-catching structure in the section is the Panch Mahal, a five-storey building that is crowned with a domed chattri. It was once the living quarters of the royal ladies and mistresses. Running my fingers on the walls, I realize that there’s hardly a pillar or wall in the complex that is not covered in carvings and inscriptio­ns. Walking further, I come across three grand apartments, built for each of Emperor Akbar’s three wives—one Christian, one Muslim, and one Hindu. It is said that the sizes of the apartments varied depending on the Emperor’s fondness of the lady. The Hindu wife’s quarter is the biggest, since it was she who gave the emperor children. Among the numerous buildings inside the palace complex, the tomb of the saint Salim Chishti is considered the most important. Built in 1580, it lies in the huge courtyard of the Jama Masjid (a mosque) and the only structure here made out of carved white marble. 4.) Amber Fort (Jaipur)

Perched atop a brightly tattooed elephant, my feet resting on its silk-laden body, I imagine myself as a maharaja being transporte­d up a hill to the Amber Fort and Palace. Soon, I am clinging to the handrails, enjoying the toss and turn of the ride and the view of the fortified walls circling far out through the rugged mountains, which are mirrored by the lake below. The magnificen­t Amber Fort dates back to 1592 during the reign of Raja Man Singh I of the Kachhwaja dynasty. Built with white marble and yellow and red sandstone, the fort and palace complex was completed two centuries after.

The elephant ride concludes at the Suraj Pol or the Sun Gate, and after handing a tip to the elephant driver (many locals ask for tips for almost everything!), I hop out into an elevated platform and wander around the Jaleb Chowk or the fort’s main courtyard, where returning armies during the ancient times would display their war booties to the populace. Soon, I walk up a large stairway that leads to the main palace, where I am greeted by another courtyard. Just like other forts and palaces, the Amber Fort also has a Diwan-i-Amm, an open-air ornamented hall where the emperor listened to the public’s sentiments. Toward the opposite side is the ivoryinlai­d Sukh Niwas or the Residence of Pleasure, where the emperors and their women hung out to unwind. Fronted with a garden, the hall has a small channel that carries cold water across the rooms, an ancient method for keeping a place cool. From here, one can enjoy a panoramic view of the mountains, the palace walls, the parade of elephants, and the Maota Lake below. Further, I find the maharaja’s apartment or Ganesh Pol, which surrounds the third courtyard. Like the other halls, its walls are festooned with paintings and swirling floral designs. It also has a screened balcony where the maharaja could look out unseen on the activities below. Secluded in the fourth courtyard is the zenana, or the women’s quarters. The chambers are built independen­t, wisely designed so the king could visit his wives and concubines without the others knowing. Here, it is impossible to miss the Sheesh Mahal or the Mirror Palace. Every bit of space on its walls and ceiling is embellishe­d with intricate patterns and glasses. According to stories, this palace was built for a queen who loved sleeping under the stars. Back then, women were forbidden to sleep in open air so the king had a building constructe­d and filled with tiny pieces of mirrors to resemble the stars. 5.) Jama Masjid (Delhi)

I am dazzled by the energy, traffic, and the tangle of humanity outside Jama Masjid, India's largest mosque. There are bearded men in flowing robes, women in brightly colored sarees, and groups of young men weaving through the crowds, some holding hands, which I find odd in an ultra-conservati­ve country. It turns out that for Indians, the gesture is just a sign of deep friendship. Beggars, their hair and clothes thick with dust, hound every non-Indian looking person for a rupee as vendors and hawkers scream their wares melodiousl­y. “Shoes and slippers are not allowed inside,” says the dark-skinned man at the mosque’s gate. I reluctantl­y remove my favorite Nike’s, not knowing if I’ll see them again.

I find myself tiptoeing franticall­y to avoid pigeon droppings scattered in the sprawling courtyard of the mosque. According to my guide, the courtyard can accommodat­e up to 25,000 worshipper­s at once. Every element of the mosque is grand, which is not surprising since it was Emperor Shah Jahan, the man behind the Taj Mahal, who ordered the constructi­on of this edifice in 1650 after he moved his empire’s capital from Agra to Delhi. On top of the mosque are three massive onion-shaped domes in black and white marble, and its entrance is adorned with imposing arches, floral carvings, and calligraph­ic inscriptio­ns. Right in front of it is the hauz, or pool, where worshipper­s can wash their hands, feet and face before entering the mosque. On both sides of the mosque are two minarets, standing 40 meters high, decorated in longitudin­al stripes of white marble and red sandstone. It is said that over 5,000 laborers and artisans worked together to finish the mosque in six years. 6.) Humayon’s Tomb (Delhi)

At first glance, Humayon’s tomb looks more like a luxurious palace than a mausoleum. Not as worldfamou­s as the Taj Mahal, the tomb of Emperor Humayon became the inspiratio­n of Emperor Shah Jahan to build the Wonder of the World, which was only constructe­d about century after, and many other important structures throughout the Mughal Empire. In 1569, 14 years after the death of Emperor Humayon, his first wife Bega Begum commission­ed a grand mausoleum to house the remains of her husband, which was exhumed twice, first in Purana Quila in Delhi and second in Punjab. Walking around the edifice, I discover that each side is the exactly the same with the others, just like the Taj Mahal. The mausoleum is a twostorey structure built in red sandstone and topped with a massive Persian double dome that towers 43 meters from the roof. On the corners of the dome are four marble-flanked chattris, a distinct Indian architectu­ral feature. Surroundin­g the tomb is a garden that is divided into four sections by causeways, in the center of which runs shallow water channels.

Admiring the tomb from afar, I realize that India has some of the most amazing architectu­ral innovation­s in the world. It has an enormous treasure trove of UNESCO World Heritage Sites, among the top countries that have the most. Have I mentioned India’s groundbrea­king contributi­ons in the fields of medicine, mathematic­s, science and technology, and the arts? Don’t be discourage­d by the mendicants and garbage heaps. As long as you keep your mind and senses open, you will surely see how incredible India is.

 ??  ?? ARCHITECTU­RAL WONDERS From top: Jama Masjid, the largest mosque in India; Humayon's Tomb is the inspiratio­n of Emperor Shah Jahan to build the Taj Mahal; and an ornate pillar in the ancient hilltop city Fatehpur Sikri
ARCHITECTU­RAL WONDERS From top: Jama Masjid, the largest mosque in India; Humayon's Tomb is the inspiratio­n of Emperor Shah Jahan to build the Taj Mahal; and an ornate pillar in the ancient hilltop city Fatehpur Sikri
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