Manila Bulletin

Chocolate at High Tea

A local chef brings back a thousandye­ar-old ceremony

- Images by MANNY LLANES SOL VANZI

ASpanish friar introduced the cacao plant in the Philippine­s in 1670, along with other flora from the Americas, or what was referred to then as the New World: avocado, squash, tomato, and other fruits and vegetables, which have become part of our regular diet.

The ancient Mesoameric­ans who first cultivated cacao plants found in the tropical rainforest­s of Central America fermented, roasted, and ground the cacao beans into a paste that they mixed with water, vanilla, honey, chili peppers, and other spices to brew a frothy chocolate drink. It is a ritual familiar to farmers cultivatin­g cacao in the hinterland­s of the Philippine­s from the mountains of Luzon to the islands scattered throughout Mindanao.

A few days ago, at the historic Manila Hotel, we watched mesmerized, as cacao beans were magically transforme­d from raw seeds to deli- cious chocolate beverage and sweet desserts in a thousand-year-old ceremony adapted by Filipinos raising the crop in small landholdin­gs all over our archipelag­o. Demonstrat­ing the craft was Cebuana Raquel Choa, whose own life story is the stuff of romantic fairy tales.

Raised in the rugged, rebel-infested area in Balamban, Cebu, Raquel grew up crossing seven rivers daily to reach the closest public school. Her only luxury was a nightly mug of hot chocolate called sikwate prepared by her grandmothe­r, who regaled her with stories about the legendary Maria Cacao and the origin of the cacao plant. Like most mountain dwellers, Raquel’s family looked after a few cacao trees for their own consumptio­n.

To celebrate the unique taste and texture of Cebu’s sikwate, the Manila Hotel has collaborat­ed with Cebu’s ‘Chocolate Queen’ Raquel Choa on Afternoon Chocolate and High Tea featuring culinary creations, such as pastries, chocolates, and Filipino delicacies that pair well with its luxury English tea offerings.

Moving to the city gave her the chance to capitalize on her knowledge about cacao, and opened doors of opportunit­y she never thought possible for a provincian­a like her. Her sikwate became popular in Cebu simply by word of mouth. Raquel’s passion for cacao has garnered her the title “Chocolate Queen,” fueling local and internatio­nal interest in fine quality, handmade Philippine chocolate, locally known as tablea.

In June 2015, she was one of the eight Bravo Empowered Women by Zonta Club of Makati and Environs, and Security Bank. In August of 2016, she was named among the 100 Most Influentia­l Filipina Women in the World, by the Filipina Women’s Network (FWN).

Early this year, Raquel revisited Chiang Mai for TEDx2018, as she showcased her chocolate creations visà-vis answering the challenge of the theme, ‘Our Common Future,’ through sustainabl­e cacao farming. A few days later, she wowed esteemed guests at the Philippine Embassy in Bangkok for an afternoon delight with Philippine artisanal chocolates. As a ‘cacao-to-tablea, soil-to-soul’ advocate, Raquel envisions to institutio­nalize The Tablea Club, which encourages tablea enthusiast­s to gather and share their tablea experience­s. Her new business concept is “Batirol,” a kiosk that serves sikwate, pure chocolate drink, and other tablea-infused food and beverages, which she is introducin­g in Agana, Guam. Another unique undertakin­g is The Chocolate Chamber Counter, which offers a wide selection of chocolate blocks, an infusion of white, milk, and dark chocolate, with various ingredient­s from classic to contempora­ry.

To assist mountain farmers and rebel returnees, she establishe­d Cacao de Filipinas Fellowship (CFF), Inc., giving jobs to many, regardless of training or educationa­l attainment and linking them with other cacao stakeholde­rs.

To celebrate the unique taste and texture of Cebu’s sikwate, the Manila Hotel is featuring culinary creations including a selection of pastries, chocolates, and Filipino delicacies that pair well with its luxury English tea offerings, amid The Manila Hotel’s sophistica­ted Old World charm, evoking the true heart and spirit of the Filipino.

Afternoon Chocolate and High Tea at the Lobby Lounge is offered daily, from 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. 02 527 0011 extension 1261 to 1264 | restaurant­rsvn@themanilah­otel.com.

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 ??  ?? CRAZY FOR COCOA From right: The Manila Hotel president Jose Lina; Executive chef Konrad Walter; and cacao experts Edu Pantino and Hannah Choa explaining use of and
CRAZY FOR COCOA From right: The Manila Hotel president Jose Lina; Executive chef Konrad Walter; and cacao experts Edu Pantino and Hannah Choa explaining use of and
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 ??  ?? CHOCOLATE DIVA Clockwsie from top: Raquel Choa shaping chocolate de bola; Raquel pounding cacao in wooden lusong; cacao artwork; and roasting cacao beans
CHOCOLATE DIVA Clockwsie from top: Raquel Choa shaping chocolate de bola; Raquel pounding cacao in wooden lusong; cacao artwork; and roasting cacao beans
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