Cool subversion
In his second outing for Gucci, shimmering with sequins and rich with leather, Sabato de Sarno levels up the dreams we can live in fashion
As we power through the sweltering summer heat, many of us likely long to relive the cold embrace of the ‘ber months that so swiftly went by. We’re long past the cool season, and this is why dreaming up the next round of colder months offers up a lush shade in the scorching sun.
Take a hint from the words Gucci’s creative director Sabato de Sarno wrote in his show notes at Milan Fashion Week: “Seek a small subversive gesture. View things from a perspective different from what is presumed most appropriate, not following the rules.” In this case, we reject the torments of a cruel summer by channeling the heat we feel now to the warmth brought by a winter fashion getaway through Gucci’s fall/ winter 2024 women’s fashion show.
A time of movement
On colder days, we move to keep ourselves warm. Our clothes must sway along seamlessly, never to deter our swift pace. This is only possible through the proper construction of a coat. Every last detail is important, taking into account that each individual thread is sewn to match its wearer’s movements. It’s a meticulous journey in which the most minute gesture can change the final result. Outfits presented during the show observe just that, staging a series of small subversive acts with regard to the rules of ready-to-wear.
The warmth of outerwear
Meant to channel the warmth of an embrace, the main coat, in fabric and with a masculine silhouette, has a covered placket and hidden buttoning on the back. The same can be found on bombers, peacoats, and leather jackets.
Attention to detail
Knitwear is just as cozy as it sounds. Think of lace, cut and reconstructed, embellished with embroideries, other laces, velvets, or perhaps a series of jacquard prints or slightly off-tone sequins to make the piece stand out more. Its intimate appearance is enough to give its wearers warmth.
Handiness of a handbag
Backpacks will only slow you down in the cooler season. Keep everything you need in a trusty handbag. Just envision yourself holding a new tophandle bag with a flat and perforated logo that reveals what lies beneath. The bag is crafted in nappa with a naturally silky feel and paired with a layer that renders it light and puffy, called GG Milano. Keeping it fresh as well is a brand new logo, shining brightly as the bag’s clutch is embellished and held together with a goldtoned metal bar that replicates the iconic bamboo.
Walk like a true queen
In the early days of Gucci, designs were evidently inspired by equestrian gear. Hoping to reignite the cavalier craze, horse-riding boots take all the attention onstage for fall and winter 2024, standing tall and brandishing thoughts raised high on the runway. Also taking the spotlight are the horsebit loafers, which have evolved into a platform sandal encapsulated by refined craftsmanship.
The beauty of accessories
Accessorize, accessorize, accessorize. To stand out as the radiating beam in a cold setting, accessories are the way to go, say, with an archival necklace in galvanized gold with a studded motif woven with a ribbon in the shade of the garment closest to the neck. Cat-eye acetate sunglasses follow the same palette and complement the look.
I am not searching for another world to live in, but rather of ways to live in this world. —Sabato de Sarno