RUNWAY REPORT
Gucci shifts gears by playing with the old and injecting a lot of new
A new attitude graces the Gucci S/S ‘20 collection
If fashion insiders assumed that Gucci’s Spring/Summer 2020 collection would be another spectacle by Creative Director Alessandro Michele, they thought wrong. There was a spectacle all right—but not the usual brand of shock value Gucci fans have grown accustomed to. The Gucci Spring/Summer 2020 was held in Milan, in the Gucci Hub where guests were welcomed with glaring red lights that quickly transformed into white, revealing an almost clinical set-up complete with a conveyer belt runway for the models. One by one, they trickled out, garbed in all white ensembles resembling straightjackets, surprising attendees. Could this be the dawn of the new age of Gucci? It’s so typical Alessandro to throw people off by sending something so unxepected. As it turned out the pieces were simply a prelude. When the actual show started, guests were treated to a new but old Gucci. One by one, models appeared on the walkway, eliciting excited reactions from the audience. It’s like seeing something familiar but new at the same time. While the famed label still stuck to its core, there was a lot of newness and perspective offered at the show. This is a very good thing because the trademark ‘70s reference are still very apparent via silhouttes and separates, along with tailored suits complete with a brand new feature: tailor labels on the hem of the pants along with jacket sleeves that proclaimed Gucci Orgasmique. There was also a play in colors via tonal combinations and color blocking. Even black, a no-show shade in Alessandro Michele’s old collections, was front and ceenter. There was also an obvious stress on sexiness: the women’s collection featured sheer dresses, along with lace lingerie, scoop neck leotards and slits. The accessories were as strong as ever, highlighting the horsebit on black pointy mules, thigh high boots and handbags. This season, the designer deviated from the usual antics, and focused solely on the clothes and accessories. While the strong reference to the ‘70s is still apparent, his approach took on a new way to wear decade dressing. With an obvious effort to make everything more wearable, it is perhaps the era of a new Gucci: dialed down but still moody, sexy and, yes, still with an edge.