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Dior’s season inspiratio­n comes from the genius of Kim Jones

- BY RAUL MANZANO PHOTOGRAPH­S COURTESY OF DIOR

AS EVER, the collection is founded on the history of Dior, its excellence of cut, tailoring, and craft. But it also reinterpre­ts modern history, a new heritage. The Dior newspaper print, introduced 20 years ago as part of the spring-summer 2000 haute-couture collection, is redrafted, once again in collaborat­ion with Daniel Arsham. The collection also telescopes to now, underscori­ng styles Kim Jones has introduced to the House of Dior: a selection of neo-classics. The tailleur oblique of Kim Jones’s debut is reiterated, its details adapted to outerwear; the reinventio­n of the Dior saddle bag continues, its curves adapted as storm-flaps on coats; and draped volant sashes introduced for winter 2019-2020 evolve. Today, they have a shaded touch, dragging through the sand of the show décor, it appears as if they are already marked by the passage of a different measure of time. Others outline the lapels of tailored jackets, like cast shadows. The notion of the hand is the essence of couture. Translatin­g it into men’s wear continues: Parisian ateliers create clouds of pleated georgette, enveloping the figure like pigment in water while, expressing the universali­ty of craft, toile de jouy patterns are hand-painted by kimono craftsmen from Kyoto, Japan. Both methods recall another era.

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