CARMEL’S BEST
Breathtaking views, the spectacular 17-Mile Drive, and perfect sweater weather bring Mia Borromeo and her family to Monterey and Carmel-by-the-Sea, where one gets to experience a different kind of “laidback”
CARMEL-BY-THE-SEA is one of the oldest cities in California, USA, and perhaps one of the most picturesque, with its unparalleled views of the Pacific Ocean, stunning shorelines, and dreamy, whimsical homes, cafés, and shops that are untouched by time. Mia Borromeo and her family have traveled to Monterey and Carmel a few times, with the most recent trip made more special, since her 93-year-old father agreed to tag along. “It’s quite a miracle at his age...,” Borromeo says, “It’s special to have friends and family there... am so fortunate to have visited this beautiful place several times already.” Borromeo is drawn to Carmel and Monterey because to her, there’s nothing quite like it anywhere in the world. Less than two hours from San Francisco, Carmel looks starkly different from California’s more popular cities, such as Los Angeles or even Napa Valley, and it’s proud to stay that way. It combines everything you would wish for during a vacation: beautiful nature, strolls along the wind blown shoreline, copious amounts of wine and great food, art gallery visits and antiquing, window shopping, farmers’ markets and an easygoing drive to experience Carmel’s best. Traversing through its famous 17-Mile Drive is an afternoon well spent. “It’s just 17 miles of pure, incredible scenery: lined with pine forests, ocean views, spectacular golf courses like Pebble Beach and beautiful holiday homes. Driving with your windows down in perfect weather, absorbing the incredible landscape, pure fresh air and amazing sunsets—(shows you) such a beautiful slice of life!” Borromeo says. Carmel is brimming with beauty, which is perhaps why it has long attracted artists to its shores, with some staying put and calling it home. “It’s such a picturesque and artistic town,” Borromeo says, “It’s full of the most charming cottages, art galleries, and shops.” Homegrown talents abound, offering contemporary art that would make for an ideal keepsake of the trip. The Carmel Art Association would be the best place to start when seeking a piece in particular. Borromeo is a self-confessed foodie, and Carmel has excellent selections for satisfying cravings. “Seafood, of course, is a must ,” Borromeo says, “Like a good lobster risotto paired with a glass of crisp white wine.” Borromeo adds that international fare, such as Italian, French, and Mediterranean abounds in laid-back restaurants. She mentions La Bicyclette, one of her favorites in downtown Carmel. “Pizzas from brick ovens and superb salads are the best. Greens, cheese, and fruit from the the whole food markets there stay so fresh in the fridge for the entire week!” Borromeo also gives a special shout out to burgers: “There’s nothing like a delicious grilled California burger with avocado on the softest brioche bun... truly simple pleasures!” One restaurant, in particular, the Mission Ranch, is well recommended for their Sunday brunches, topped off by a live jazz ensemble, and a free show of sheep grazing nearby. The
restaurant is partly owned by multi-awarded actor and director Clint Eastwood, who has long called Carmel by-the-Sea his home, and who was also the former Mayor of Carmel. Carmel also has a blossoming wine scene. The Wine Walk by-the-Sea takes you through around 13 tasting rooms, all owned by locals, offering wines from the Monterey County. “They have so many good inexpensive California wines, right?” Borromeo muses, “It’s so nice with that weather. It’s fun to sip wine sitting with a fire going when it’s chilly with blue skies and just have a few sips. You can even take it outdoors, since the weather is so conducive to enjoying nature.” Borromeo and her family have a special affinity with Carmel, as the California mission in Carmel bears their “namesake.” A California mission was essentially a church that was built to help urge inhabitants to convert to Catholicism back in the 18th century by the Spanish—1771, to be exact. There are 21 California missions throughout the state, with much of the missions founded by St. Junipero Serra. What makes this particular one, the Mission San Carlos Borromeo de Carmelo, stand out from the rest is that St. Junipero Serra chose it as his burial ground. Since Carmel is known for its artists, it was but fitting that the sepulcher was designed by a local artist, Jo Mora. Borromeo marvels at the coincidence. “He brought the Catholic church to Carmel. Imagine the coincidence that it’s named after San Carlos Borromeo. Of course, I’m not claiming at all that we’re related, but it’s so funny about to have this serendipitous connection to it.” Shopping and antiquing is a must when in Carmel, and there’s no better place to head to than to Ocean Avenue. Borromeo says, “There are beautiful streets and little courtyards with the loveliest little stores. It’s just so charming.” There are over a hundred quaint shops to visit, some with distinct curlicue tops, as if you were in a storybook. And while some may be more familiar brands, there are more homegrown stores, carrying one-of-akind finds. “There are of course the more serious antique shops as well as fun vintage stores— there, you can find great heirloom pieces if you look hard enough,” Borromeo says, “One of my weaknesses is looking for anything for the tabletop whenever I travel. I love picking up decorative plates and tea cups here and there, glasses too. I don’t mind mixing and matching them if I don’t find a complete set. It’s actually like therapy for me to do table settings and tablescapes with my finds. Other things I look for would be interesting books, odd little things like candlesticks, boxes, prints, and little figurines—th’s my favorite type of shopping.” But beyond heading out to the shops or relying on photos and her own memories, Borromeo shares that it’s the simple things, more often than not, that remind her of her travels. “I often bring back stones, leaves, and found objects, then arrange them and love to put them there,” she says, gesturing to one of the many glass boxes displayed in her home. “Maybe it’s my way of documenting; I keep my memories alive by what I bring back from my travels. There’s always a story to tell. I know maybe people will find it strange, but I find that those simple things are sometimes the most beautiful and really are special treasures for me.”