ANALYSIS ...

brands were cleaning up their act. With only a handful of firms producing almost all of the world’s viscose, Trunk said pressure from brand could make “a massive difference”.

For Christie Miedema, of the Dutch-based Clean Clothes Campaign, brands have become expert as “eco messaging” with “one-off collections or clever initiatives to make it looking like they are doing something” without actually changing the way they operate.

Versace, which came bottom only to Walmart in the Changing Markets table, made the front pages by sending Brazilian supermodel Gisele Bundchen to New York’s Met Gala in a “100 percent green eco-dress” while Prada -which is also deep in its “red zone” -- got admiring media coverage for their Re-Nylon “eco handbag”.

Dior is part of LVMH, the world’s biggest luxury group.

Unlike its main rival Kering and 24 other major clothing companies, LVMH pointedly refused to sign up to “The Fashion Pact” on fighting climate change at the G7 summit last year.

- ‘They will be found out’ Owner Bernard Arnault -- the world’s richest man -- later criticized teenage activist Greta Thunberg for “surrendering to total catastrophism” even as he appointed McCartney his personal advisor on sustainability in September.

Kering -- which controls Gucci and Saint Laurent -has since said it has gone carbon neutral and has vowed to halve greenhouse gas emissions in its supply chain within five years.

Joel Hazan, luxury goods analyst at the Boston Consulting Group, said the industry “had passed a tipping point”, and warned those who pretend to embrace sustainability would be found out.

“The demographics will make the difference,” he told AFP. “Eight out of 10 millennials expect labels to play a strong part socially and environmentally.”

Since almost all growth in luxury goods in the next five years “is predicted to come from millennials, brands have no choice” but to change, Hazan argued.

Indeed Vetements, the hot youthful rebel brand which has shaken Paris fashion in recent years, used its men’s show to pour scorn on its elders with slogans such as “Cutting down the bullshit”, “Fully sustainable show” and “It costs $0 to be a nice person”.Agence France-Presse