Philippine Daily Inquirer

Transforma­ble–therefore

- By Marge C. Enriquez Contributo­r

THE CLOUD has deep meanings in Chinese culture, symbolizin­g both good fortune and immortalit­y.

Likewise, jeweler Paul Syjuco uses the gourd in his jewelry creations, to represent protection from evil and blessings. He celebrates this by creating white diamond clouds and gourds in a pyrite beaded choker, further adorned with green amethyst.

For her part, designer Kristine Dee fashions cherry blossoms from mother-of-pearl, framed by rose-cut sapphires in a necklace. For a gold cocktail ring, the mother-of-pearl cherry blossoms are accentuate­d by red spinels. As red and gold are auspicious colors in Chinese culture, they also bring out the purity of the floral designs.

‘Orientalis­m’

The design duo has chosen “Orientalis­m” as the theme of their latest collection. They will hold a trunk show on Oct. 13 at Chef Jessie at the Rockwell Club.

“Clients are always looking for something unique and eye-catching,” says Dee. “I’m using mother-of-pearl and creating new bangle shapes.”

Clusters of cherry blossoms form the basic stud of an earring played up with drops of chrysophra­se, a green gemstone.

“It looks like jade but is less pricey. It’s beautiful because of its luminosity,” she says.

Dee also draws inspiratio­n from intricate temple details of India and the lacelike designs of Rajasthan. For the pendant, the main stone, morganite, is held in a setting of red spinels and sapphires, reminiscen­t of the elaborate heart-shaped patterns on the walls of traditiona­l Indian buildings.

The multicolor sapphires adorning the jewelry come in rose cut, a technique common in antique jewelry, characteri­zed by its circular shape and triangular facets.

“Rose-cut stones lend an Old World feel to a piece of jewelry. They soften the look, compared with brilliant cut stones where many

Kristine Dee and Paul Syjuco’s new collection draws inspiratio­n from China, India–even from Bulacan’s ‘pastillas’ wrappers

facets are cut to make it really bright. This is more about subdued elegance,” says Dee.

‘Pastillas’ tradition

Dee also looks to the pastillas tradition in Bulacan, with its intricatel­y cut wrappers. The cutout look is interprete­d in the finely chiseled cutout patterns on the ring and cuffs, embellishe­d with rose-cut sapphires and spinels in festive colors.

Still, she reverts to her industrial design background by coming out with a bold, asymmetric­al cocktail ring and earrings with irregular-cut stones of amethyst and pink sapphires.

“I have also been invited to make a collection this October 17-20 at Manila FAME with Josie Natori. This will consist of silver pieces with gold and precious stone accents. I will give a sneak preview of this during the October 13 show,” she says.

It’s the first time that Syjuco is infusing his collection with softer colors, feminine curves and symbols, unlike his abstract pieces of the past. “I’m focusing on luck,” he says. Syjuco is introducin­g charm bracelets such as the gold chain bracelet with clear rutilated quartz and rock crystals, highlighte­d by the endless knot—intertwini­ng lines laced with white diamonds—that represent eternal love or wisdom.

The yin and yang charm bracelet features gold coins with white diamonds on one

 ?? PHOTOS BY NELSON
MATAWARAN ?? PAUL Syjuco SYJUCO’S Orientalia: His design background is Western, yet he places equal value on Asian aesthetics and traditions.
KRISTINE Dee DEE’S festive forecast for the holidays— gold cuff with sapphires and spinels
PHOTOS BY NELSON MATAWARAN PAUL Syjuco SYJUCO’S Orientalia: His design background is Western, yet he places equal value on Asian aesthetics and traditions. KRISTINE Dee DEE’S festive forecast for the holidays— gold cuff with sapphires and spinels

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