Philippine Daily Inquirer

Very good ‘dim sum’–who said they should be light?

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When Japanese ramen arrived in the local culinary scene, Filipino foodies received it with much glee and hungry tummies.

Restaurant­s had very long queues and reservatio­ns were not accepted. But despite this seeming phenomenon, there is and has always been the “silent conqueror” of our collective palate—the unheralded Chinese dim sum.

Those little baskets of bitesize food were originally the appetizers served in Chinese restaurant­s before lauriat. To- day, picky diners are also forming lines outside dining establishm­ents offering only dim sum, which have been elevated to full meals at all hours of the day.

Dim sum was served in tea houses in old China beginning some 2,500 years ago as a complement to the strong beverage. It is said to be the precursor of the Western brunch, a meal taken between breakfast and lunch.

Tim HoWan

G/L, Uptown Bonifacio Mall, tel . 0917-8492222

This is supposed to be Hong Kong’s famous Michelin-star resto. Tim Ho Wan in Uptown Mall luckily does not have the long line that forms daily at the Makati main branch.

Dining area— Huge, and table turnover is quick. Décor is minimal. But some tables are set very close to each other that one can overhear the conversati­ons at the next table.

Service— Since this is similar to buffet, the kitchen was quick and efficient.

Staff— Outside of the lady staff who was unwilling to accept reservatio­ns even if you came early, the wait group conducted themselves well. In the past, carts containing the selection were pushed around tables. Today, they give out lists and pencils so customers can indicate their orders. Suggested orders— An unofficial rule to follow: Start with the light ones (steamed buns), then progress to the exotic or heavier variety (fried buns).

Hence, Prawn Dumpling, Pork Dumpling with Shrimps and Spinach Dumpling with Shrimps first, followed by Braised Chicken Feet with Abalone Sauce. Then the heavies—Baked Bun with Barbecue Pork, Beef Ball with Beancurd skin, Spring Roll with Egg White, Wasabi Salad Prawn Dumplings (very good) and Spare Ribs Rice.

We would not suggest the Chow Mien Stir Fried Noodles, which we found too dry and tasteless.

There is more in the lineup; check them out and be satisfied.

Now who ever said dim sum was light? Think again and indulge!

Government and service charges are added to the bill. Senior cards are honored. Rating:

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