Philippine Daily Inquirer

In shadow of China’s reef city, Pag-asa hopes for upgrade



CHINA SEA— If the Filipinos on the remote South China Sea island of Pag-asa had binoculars, they might just be envious of how their neighbors on the next island live.

Just 24 kilometers (15 miles) across the shimmering sea from this rundown outpost of the Philippine­s lies a different world shown by an unbroken line of new, four-story white buildings. Radar towers and a lighthouse complete Subi Reef, a mini city China has raised from the sea at an astonishin­g pace since 2013.

Subi symbolizes China’s increasing­ly assertive claim to most of the South China Sea, a claim it reinforces in building man-made islands from dredged sand and equipping them with runways, hangars and surface-to-air missiles.

For the 37 Filipino families who call Pag-asa their home, however, life is basic with just a few buildings, no television or internet, and no shops or street-side eateries.

There isn’t even a street, just a dirt track used by the island’s only vehicle—a small truck.

At only 37 hectares, the coral-fringed island, known to Filipinos as Pag-asa, is the biggest of the eight reefs, shoals and islands the Philippine­s occupies in the Spratly archipelag­o, 280 miles away from the mainland.

But Pag-asa’s inhabitant­s have a strategic purpose—preserving a Philippine claim of sovereignt­y in the face of a resurgent China.

According to the Asia Maritime Transparen­cy Initiative, China will soon be capable of deploying fighter jets on three reefs, including Subi.

By comparison, Pag-asa’s military muscle is a few dozen rotating troops with small arms, and a dirt runway through a patch of grass.

Jenny May Ray, 24, has taught for one year at the island’s school. She says Pagasa’s residents are heroes.

“We should be thankful for their sacrifices for staying on an island far away from civilizati­on, away from their loved ones and families and I hope some day, something can be written about them in our history,” she said.

“Pag-asa will see progress one day and they will not be forgotten because they have a big role in protecting the island.”

But the islanders want more in return. Ray said the school needed improvemen­ts, the childrens’ diets were poor, and they were short on books.

The government is wary of China’s ambitions and knows life needs to be better for the Filipinos who get free food and housing in exchange for maintainin­g the four-decade Philippine occupation.

Taiwan, Vietnam and Malaysia also have communitie­s in the Spratlys, but they enjoy far better living standards

Defense Secretary Delfin Lorenzana visited Pag-asa with journalist­s aboard a C-130 plane on Friday to inspect sites earmarked for P1.6 billion ($32.1 million) of developmen­t, including a small fishing port, a beaching ramp, desalinati­on facilities and runway repairs.

“You saw Subi Reef a while ago and we really lagged behind,” he said.

“We are now the last. You saw Vietnam’s (islands) when we passed by the area, it’s already very built up a long time ago. We should have done this before.”

Lorenzana and a planeload of day-tripping troops and airmen joined villagers for a ceremonial raising of the national flag, a staple of daily life in the Philippine­s’ most isolated village, where patriotism comes before anything else.

Within an earshot is a school of just over 30 children. A teacher leads fifth-grade students in reciting songs about their pride in Pag-asa belonging to the Philippine­s.

Change comes slowly on the island, in sharp contrast to China’s activities. Since Reuters last visited Pag-asa two years ago, Subi Reef has transforme­d from a single building and cranes on an artificial sand bank to what looks like a forward operating base with its own town.

China insists these islands are for defensive purposes and objects strongly to planes or boats that come near them.—

 ?? BULLIT MARQUEZ/AP ?? Cranes, structures and buildings dominate the skyline of China’s man-made Subi Reef in the Spratly chain, as seen from the Philippine-held Pag-asa island.—
BULLIT MARQUEZ/AP Cranes, structures and buildings dominate the skyline of China’s man-made Subi Reef in the Spratly chain, as seen from the Philippine-held Pag-asa island.—

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