ZIGZAGGING IN CAMNORTE
Until the late 1990s, all trips to the Bicol region would pass through two dizzying zigzag roads in Camarines Norte before that obligatory 30minute meal stop and toilet break.
The Quirino (or Andaya) Highway, which opened in 1998, cut through the railroad towns of Quezon and Camarines Sur, and trimmed travel time by 2 hours skipping Cam Norte and the unnecessary meal stop.
Surprisingly, the province shot to prominence in recent years despite being bypassed due to the aggressive tourism promotional effort of the provincial government.
By public transport, Cam Norte can be reached on board Philtranco or Super Lines which has morning and night trips to Daet, the capital and transport gub.
On a private vehicle, it is better to travel early morning so you can see the mountain road of Quezon National Park in Atimonan and the 89-km zigzag road from Sta. Elena to Labo.
A fun and adventurous way to ride to the south ala Jaime Dempsey-style is on a big bike, offered by Ride Along Motorcycle Tours by Travel Concierge PH.
The first to offer package tours based on motorcycle travel, Ride Along has various models up to the Royal Enfield RE C500 or Yamaha XVS 1100 cc, which can be self-driven, with a guide or a backrider.
Here are seven interesting stops strongly recommended.
Pit Stop #1: provincial boundary
Even before the age of Facebook, it was customary for Pinoy travelers to pull up and take a snapshot at a roadside landmark for posterity.
This is a perfect spot for your FB profile photo, and to limber a bit before you enter the seeming endless twists and turns in Sta. Elena and Labo.
Local officials some time ago managed to count the curves in the highway system to 567, and moved to declare Cam Norte as the country’s “zigzag capital” through a provincial ordinance.
Pit Stop #2: Labo
Situated by the banks of the scenic Busig-on River and the with majestic Mt. Labo in the background, this urbanizing town is the birthplace of Gen. Vicente Lukban, one of the fabled leaders during the FilipinoAmerican War in the early 1900s.
Museo de Labo at the Municipal Plaza showcases artifacts and antiques lent by local prominent families.
If you feel the urge for a quick dip in icy waters, Malatap and Binuang waterfalls are just a few hundred meters away from the highway.
There is also the Sinagtala Resort which simulates hydromassage or jacuzzi to rejuvenate your tired muscles.
Pit Stop #3: Daet
Call it a day after a long drive and spend the night in this growing municipality which has seen unprecedented economic progress in the past years.
There is a wide array of accommodation, but the beach- front Bagasbas Lighthouse Hotel Resort is the hands-down choice with its comfy rooms, amenities, aquasport facilities and mouth-watering Bicol cuisine.
Another country-themed lodging is Pineapple Island Resort which is known for its giant slide pools and casual dining restaurant, Chef Mama, a homegrown brand noted for its fusion regional delights.
Bagasbas Beach is the world’s 62nd surfing spot, and the first in the Philippines to be recognized internationally.
With its shallow water and sandy bottom, you can get surfing 101 lessons here at friendly rates.
Being expanded is the coastal road, called Pres. Cory Aquino Blvd., which will be the country’s longest at 8.7 kms when completed, spanning the towns of Daet, Mercedes and Talisay.
The beach is also emerging as a kiteboarding haven, and has played host to the prestigious Kiteboard Tour Asia.
Located in the town proper are the First Rizal Monument, a white stone obelisk which was built in 1898; Daet Heritage Center, the former municipal hall that houses historical items and serves as the town’s socio-civic center; the spic-and-span Provincial Capitol Complex; and the Bulawan Museum.
An interesting spot is the Rufino Pabico ancestral mansion, which is celebrating its centennial this year.
Considered a living museum because of its colonial architecture and antique furnishings, it has welcomed Filipino dignitaries during the post-war years.
Pit Stop #4: Mercedes
Daet’s next-door neighbor, it is Bicol’s “fish bowl” because of its fishport where tons of aquatic resources are unloaded every day, and where you can buy fresh catch at rock-bottom prices.
It is also known for the Siete Pecados where you can go hopping or snorkeling in the seven islands, each of which has a unique feature.
The more agile can paddle around the islands aboard a kayak which the Mercedes tourism office rents out.
Back at the mainland, you can do kayak surfing at Baybay Beach where you can test your paddling skills as you ride the moderate to rough waves.
If you are a newbie, the chance of capsizing is almost certain, but it is part of the fun experience.
Pit Stop #5: San Lorenzo Ruiz
This interior town which used to be named after a former First Lady known for her Imeldific lifestyle, is a quaint waterworld where you can refresh and wash away the seawater.
Get a hydro-massage and laze at the natural rock pools with icy water rushing down the Mampurog River Resort.
The facility is a bit basic, but its back-to-nature allure and relaxing dip more than compensate for its physical shortcomings.
It’s not everyday that you can have a river as your swimming pool.
San Lorenzo Ruiz also takes pride in its sweet-tasting Queen (Formosa) pineapple variety and durable walis tambo which often find their way to Baguio City.
Pit Stop #6: Basud
Another pineapple-producing municipality, it is home to the next series of long and winding roads that lead to the door of Camarines Sur.
This 35-km stretch cuts through the Bicol National Park where the 300-year old red lauan Mother Tree, the tallest and oldest in the region, proudly stands deep in the bosom of the forest.
The zigzag has a moderateto-steep incline that makes an exciting drive for motor vehicles, bicycles, motorcycles, and even longboard riding, which makes this meandering road an occasional playground to promote sports tourism in the province.
Near Basud poblacion is Laniton Shrine, site of the first guerilla encounter in the archipelago against the Japanese Imperial Army during World War 2 led by Wenceslao Vinzons, a youth leader and editor from the University of the Philippines.
Pit Stop #7: Vinzons
If you are a freedom-loving Filipino, especially if you are a University of the Philippines graduate, a visit to the birthplace of the fabled and martyred resistance leader is like a religious pilgrimage where you can pay homage to his place of origin.
The Wenceslao Vinzons House, despite having survived the ravages of time and being declared a National Historical Landmark, is dilapidated and needs a well-deserved restoration.
Known locally as Bintao, the illustrious young provincial governor was abducted by the Japanese and was never seen again.
The town also boasts of the St. Peter the Apostle Church, a 400-year old parish, but whose structure is a new one having been rebuilt after a fire a few years back.
The church also has a massive arch called Porta Petri which was built in 2011 to mark the quadricentennial founding of the parish community.
Before heading home, swing by the public market for the local delicacy angko, a square sticky rice cake with peanut sauce filling.
For pasalubong, C. Manzo Pilinut and Delicacies Store and Jannah’s Pasalubong have a wide array of pili-based Bicol candies.
Oh, I almost forgot to tell you that Calaguas Islands, the dreamy powdery sand and ginclear water which can rival Boracay, is located in Vinzons’s Pacific seaboard, two hours away by boat.
You would need at least one whole day for the round-trip and island stay.
Zipping the zigzags, driving and dining around CamNorte is a roadworthy experience like no other.