Philippine Daily Inquirer

INDEPENDEN­CE DAY OF INDIA

India’s EXPLORING HEART

- By Shashi Priya

From the historic Bhimbetka rock shelters to the breathtaki­ng Dhuandhar waterfall - a trip to Madhya Pradesh is an ideal winter escapade for those seeking scenic beauty, lipsmackin­g food, a tryst with spirituali­ty and more!

As winter descends on the hinterland, bright, sunny mornings make it clear that the season must not be wasted in idle slumber. Perhaps it’s time to look beyond the usual suspects of the season and turn your gaze towards the fascinatin­g topographi­es of Madhya Pradesh, which have something for every kind of traveller --the history buff, the naturalist, the spiritual seeker, the leisure lover... whatever your thirst, find something to satiate it in this magnificen­t centrepiec­e of India.

PAST PERFECT

Madhya Pradesh has the ability to take you back in time–all the way back to the Palaeolith­ic period. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the rock shelters of Bhimbetka are an open forest gallery of rock art that is approximat­ely 30,000 years old! The paintings found here have a striking resemblanc­e to the ones discovered in Kakadu National Park in Australia, the cave paintings of Bushmen in the Kalahari Desert and Upper Palaeolith­ic Lascaux cave paintings in France. Follow this up with a walk around Pachmarhi’s natural caves and Vidisha’s Udaygiri caves, the latter famous for their Guptaera inscriptio­ns.

And then there is Khajuraho, with its ancient temples depicting some of the finest art in the world, best experience­d in the crimson and golden hues of sunrise and sunset. The temples abound in exquisite sculptures and are a wordless yet powerful depiction of themes such as meditation, spirituali­ty, kinship, wrestling, royalty and most significan­tly, erotic art.

Embrace renunciati­on next, at the pristine and tranquil Stupas of Sanchi. If you’re in Bhopal, the state capital, make sure you visit Bhojpur nearby, for its unfinished masterpiec­es. The incomplete Bhojeshwar temple houses, one of the largest Shivlings (18 feet in height and 7.5 feet in circumfere­nce) carved out of a single stone. The state’s architectu­ral wonders also include the historic cities of Gwalior and Orchha, where every nook bristles with medieval

palaces, forts and temples.

NATURE’S BOUNTY

Rewa in Madhya Pradesh was once home to Mohan, the world-renowned white tiger. Today, Kanha, Pench and Bandhavgar­h--all just a few hours from each other by road--are among India’s finest tiger reserves and abound in diverse flora and fauna. Full of sal and bamboo trees, rare species of leopard, sloth bears, deer, reptiles and birds, the state is home to the original Kipling country so fondly written about in The Jungle Book. Winter being safari season, this trio is highly sought-after by naturalist­s and wildlife enthusiast­s. You can begin with Bandhavgar­h, one of India’s most picturesqu­e national parks, dating back 2,000 years. It is a place of great mythologic­al and legendary significan­ce, and is home to several man-made caves and rock paintings. Head next to Kanha, where tigers aren’t the only sought-after sighting--the forest is also home to the barasing- ha, a black and golden deer with velvet antlers. In Pench, astrophoto­graphy is a major pull for those seeking the stars that city skies can often hide. The biosphere also offers opportunit­ies to mingle with the Gond tribe and admire their traditiona­l art. With walls and doors as their canvas, Gond artists use yellow and black clay to create signature patterns. Once you’ve had your fill of the forest and tribal culture, get drenched and wash off all fatigue at the natural water wonders Madhya Pradesh boasts. Merely 25 km from the city of Jabalpur lies a majestic horseshoe-shaped cascade that is often termed India’s Niagara Falls. Dhuandhar, a word that literally refers to mist emanating from a stream, at Bhedaghat has been the preferred setting for many a dreamy Bollywood sequence!

PILGRIM’S PROGRESS

Beyond antiquity and adventure, the state has ample scope for deep soul-searching and spiritual rejuvenati­on. Amarkantak, the meeting point of the Vindhya and Satpura mountain ranges located at an altitude of 1,000 meters, is an ancient Hindu pilgrim center popularly known as "teerthraj" (the king of pilgrimage­s). It is also the point of origin of three rivers-- Narmada, Sone and Johila. For a truly minimalist experience, stay in tents at the MPTDC resort and find time to catch up with yourself by the riverside, surrounded by thick sal forests. The banks of the Narmada also hold one of the 12 holy Jyotirling­a shrines in India-Omkareshwa­r. Both Amarkantak and Omkareshwa­r have a verdant, leafy feel. Along the banks of River Shipra lies Ujjain, one of Hinduism’s seven sacred cities. Dating back to 600 BC, it is also the site of the Kumbha Mela, the world’s largest religious gathering, that takes place once every 12 years.

LEISURE LOVE

That pursuits of the leisurely kind also require patience and devotion, is best explained in Maheshwar and Chanderi. The historic towns are today renowned for their handwoven sarees--Maheshwari and Chanderi, respective­ly. While shopping to your heart’s content is the best way to experience both towns--besides taking a tour of their architectu­ral gems-watching the process of handweavin­g, dyeing and working the hand loom are must-dos. Not too far away from here lies Indore, a city known for its smorgasbor­d of delicacies. For a foodie, a day spent here is best began with a plateful of pohajalebi, carried on with a vast variety of namkeens and gajak, finally culminatin­g at the city’s famous food market, the Sarafa Bazaar. The list of delicacies is unending--bhutte ka kees, coconut-corn patties, fried garadu, papad ki sabzi, milk shikanji, sabudana khichri... there is no better way to conclude a Madhya Pradesh sojourn than with a hearty meal.

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 ??  ?? Philippine President Rodrigo Roa Duterte (left) shakes hands with Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi during his visit to India in January this year.
Philippine President Rodrigo Roa Duterte (left) shakes hands with Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi during his visit to India in January this year.
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 ??  ?? A tiger at Kanha National Park The majestic Gwalior Fort
A tiger at Kanha National Park The majestic Gwalior Fort
 ??  ?? The Stupas of Sanchi
The Stupas of Sanchi
 ??  ?? Shivani Dhar, a handicraft­s expert, shows the movements of a handloom at an emporium run by the government of Madhya Pradesh
Shivani Dhar, a handicraft­s expert, shows the movements of a handloom at an emporium run by the government of Madhya Pradesh
 ??  ?? Sculptures of Jaintirtha­nkaras, or saviors, near Gwalior Fort
Sculptures of Jaintirtha­nkaras, or saviors, near Gwalior Fort
 ??  ?? The Sabudana khichri
The Sabudana khichri

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