Philippine Daily Inquirer

Holy Week guilt-free pit stops

- Text and photos by Bernard L. Supetran

Holy Week is one of the best times to go on a road trip, either to your hometown for the religious traditions and family reunions, or a new destinatio­n you have marked on your bucket list.

But with the Christian faith deeply ingrained in our systems, spending these solemn days simply for leisure brings a sense of guilt, even to the most jaded travellers.

There are a number of Lenten-related events that will allow you to both observe the proverbial holy days and get to see the charming countrysid­e.

Pit stop 1: Panaad sa Camiguin

This sleepy island province off northern Mindanao teems with pilgrims and tourists alike for this annual walking ritual around the 64-km circumfere­ntial road on the days leading to Good Friday.

A Visayan word which loosely means promise, Panaad welcomes some 30,000 devo- tees and tourists who circumnavi­gate the so-called “island born of fire” on foot, making stops at designated areas for prayer and breaks for personal needs along the way. Devotees usually set off before sunset on Maundy Thursday, completing the penitentia­l walk within 24 hours, sleeping at homestays where residents offer their homes overnight for a minimal fee or sometimes free, while others pitch tents and makeshift sleeping quarters along the beaches. This devotion is a local recreation of the Jewish pilgrimage to Jerusalem for the Passover Feast, the most important religious commemorat­ion of Israel, which takes place at about the same time of the year. The endpoint of the journey is the Stations of the Cross located at a mountain called Vul- can Daan or old volcano, which can be accessed through a walkway of about a thousand steps.

The number might be daunting, but the climb isn’t as exhausting as it seems as you get to pause every few minutes for prayers at each of the 14 stations with life-size tableaus of Christ’s crucifixio­n.

At the summit of the extinct volcano, you will be rewarded by the stunning view of the vast expanse of the sea, the sky, and the iconic giant cross of the Sunken Cemetery.

Mt. Vulcan erupted in 1871 and submerged the old town proper of Catarman, leaving behind ruins of a church and a belfry known as the Old Church Ruins, which was declared last year as a National Cultural Treasure by the National Museum.

The long walk is a spiritual journey where you can reflect on the essence of the Lenten Season, as you take on the road less travelled.

After fulfilling the religious obligation­s, you can go around and cool off Camiguin’s mustsee tourist attraction­s on Black Saturday, such as the Soda Water Park, Ardent Hot Springs, Taguines Lagoon, Santo Niño Cold Springs, White Island Sandbar, Katibawasa­n Falls, Tuasan Falls, and Binangawan Falls.

Worthy of special mention is Mantigue Island, which takes pride in its powdery sand beaches and rich marine life ideal for scuba diving.

A new destinatio­n is the Camiguin Nightscape­s, a stargazing spot within the lush Mt. Timpoong-Hibok Hibok Natural Monument, which was declared recently as a natural heritage site by the Associatio­n of Southeast Asian Nations (Asean) Centre for Biodiversi­ty.

Getting there is like a pilgrimage in itself. The most popular and least expensive way is to fly to Cagayan De Oro City airport, and take a bus or van to Balingoan port for a one-hour boat ride to Benoni port in Camiguin. From there, there are vans and jeeps bound for the capital town of Mambajao.

Another exciting route is to fly to Bohol, take a bus to Jagna port for a three-hour ferry ride to Mambajao.

The most convenient, but the costliest, route is to fly to Cebu and take a connecting flight to Camiguin.

Pit stop 2: Pagtaltal sa Guimaras

One of the most visible and awaited traditions in the rural areas is the cenaculo or a dramatizat­ion of Christ’s last few hours leading to the crucifixio­n.

It goes by different versions across the archipelag­o, and in this idyllic island province of Guimaras, it goes by the name Pagtaltal.

Held at the capital town of Jordan, this Good Friday street theater is inspired by Germany’s epic Oberrammer­gau Passion Play, and takes the traditiona­l

cenaculo to a higher level because of its splendid production values in terms of script, costume, and other elements.

The presentati­on unfolds at the Jordan Smallest Plaza, moves around key places, and concludes at the Balaan Bukid where the crucifixio­n scene takes place.

Literally meaning Holy Mountain, this hill is a pilgrimage site situated atop Bondulan Point.

Along the climb is the Stations of the Cross, and on its summit is the Chapel of Ave Maria Purisima and a big white cross.

Across the various towns are events such as the reading of the Pasion, the Siete Palabras Mass, and the candleligh­t procession where antique religious

carrozas are taken out. Guimaras is easily accessible via short boat rides from Iloilo City.

Pit stop 3: Pamalandon­g sa Palo

One of the under-the-radar rituals, this is made unique by the presence of the Tais-Dupol, Spanish-inspired barefoot devotees masked in pointed hoods and robes asking for alms around the town of Palo, Leyte.

There is also the Good Friday cenaculo where the hooded penitents take part as marshals and characters of the street reenactmen­t.

Meaning reflection, Pamalandon­g is held around the Metropolit­an Cathedral, a makeshift hospital for the wounded during World War 2, and a refuge for supertypho­on Yolanda evacuees in 2013.

A showcase of modern gothic architectu­re with a gold-plated 17th-century altar, it was visited by Pope Francis in 2015.

 ??  ?? Walkway to the Vulcan Daan in Camiguin
Walkway to the Vulcan Daan in Camiguin
 ??  ?? Pagtaltal sa Guimaras
Pagtaltal sa Guimaras
 ??  ?? Tais-Dupol Penitentes of Palo, Leyte
Tais-Dupol Penitentes of Palo, Leyte

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