Cherished recipes from Dasma homes
Ireceived the prettiest suman in a basket from Doren Tayag, the kind that you’d be happy to receive but wouldn’t want to touch because of how pretty it is. The special rice cakes called suman Pasku are traditionally a Christmas treat. The delightful rendition of the kakanin I received was made by Alviz Farms.
Managed by Andy Alviz and his family, the farm in Pampanga is a heritage and culinary destination. It is where lifestyle guru Martha Stewart planted rice and savored the Alviz family’s heirloom recipes.
“The pandemic totally rearranged my life,” said Andy. That was when he and his sister Celi came up with the suman-in-abasket concept.
Along with their mother Apung Trining, they gathered a group of young hands to train in the art of making suman Pasku the traditional way; the sight was a contrast to how it was made in the olden days by the elderly ladies of the barrio.
Andy recounted: “There was resistance in the beginning, but they didn’t have much of a choice. They were jobless and it was a great social activity for them. There was food, money and lots of fun.”
Andy posted photos of their work on Facebook and Instagram. The mere visuals of the kakanin drew attention.
Those familiar with the food served at Alviz Farms requested that their signature ancestral dishes be delivered along with their suman baskets.
Andy once again put on his thinking cap and created what I would best describe as a “couture” palayok, adorned with a basket handle, embellished with rope, banana leaves and flowers. The palayok was to be the serving vessel of the Alviz family specialties.
On their takeaway menu in palayok is asadu matua, a thrice-cooked pork or chicken dish marinated in soy sauce, vinegar and tomatoes or tomato sauce. The dish is boiled first, then the pork and chicken are fried until golden brown, then slow simmered for six hours.
Plus, the prettiest ‘suman’ in a basket
local take on Spanish paella, bringhe is made from glutinous rice native chicken, coconut milk, luyang dilaw (turmeric), quail eggs, raisins, bell peppers.
There is also umba, the Kapampangan humba, and sisig. (@my_kapampangan_life on Instagram.)
Comfort food cookbook
As a young cook, some of my most cherished possessions were handwritten recipes of home-cooked specialties from the kitchens of family and friends.
The comfort food cookbook “What’s Cooking in Dasmariñas Village” is one such item. It is a compilation of beloved family recipes alongside restaurant favorites penned by the village residents themselves. The proceeds of the book go to various causes supported by the Dasma Ladies Society.
Here are some recipes from the cookbook that may be ordered through tel. 8812-3335 ext. 102.
Barangay Captain Rossana Hwang’s Adobo with Banana Blossoms
(A recipe of her grandmother Rosario Uy-Godinez Yap) Serves 8
1 kg pork shoulder/butt
(pigue) sliced into 2-inch cubes
¼ c oil
1 head garlic, crushed
½ tsp salt
2 Tbsp soy sauce
¼ c vinegar
3 Tbsp brown sugar
1 tsp crushed peppercorn 2 bay leaves, crushed
½ c banana blossoms (soaked in water for 20 minutes and tied into knots)
Heat pan. Pour oil, and sauce garlic while oil is hot. When garlic is brown, add pork until gray. Add salt, soy sauce, sugar, vinegar, brown sugar, peppercorn, bay leaves. Add water, enough to submerge the pork. Cook covered until pork is tender and the sauce is almost dry.
Toss in the banana blossoms, add 1 cup water. Cook 10 minutes more.
There are famous chefs in the village, too. Here is a family favorite of chefs Gino and China Gonzalez.
Baked Creamy Salmon Gratin
Serves 2
600-700 g salmon fillet Zest and juice of ½ of a lemon Salt and pepper
2 Tbsp olive oil Marinate salmon and transfer to baking dish.
Topping:
1 c cream cheese, room temperature
3 Tbsp Japanese mayonnaise ½ c cream
Zest of ½ lemon
2 Tbsp fresh dill
⅛ tsp aromatic seasoning Salt and pepper
¼ c butter, cut into small cubes
Mix well to combine, except butter. Spread on salmon.
Lay cubed butter all over salmon. Bake salmon in a 375400°F oven for 22-25 minutes. Garnish with charred cherry tomatoes and sautéed French beans. Serve with lemon wedge. Siding:
6-8 pieces cherry tomatoes (char in a pan with olive oil, salt and pepper)
200 grams French beans, sautéed in butter
From the Gamboa household, the famous Cirkulo’s Paella Montaña, a wild mushroom paella contributed by Chef J Gamboa and his sister Malu Lindo.
Paella Montaña
¼ c olive oil
2 cloves garlic, whole peeled ½ c onions, minced
½ c mushrooms, shiitake, sliced
½ c mushrooms button, sliced ½ c mushrooms, oyster, sliced ½ c mushrooms, abalone, sliced or 2 cups assorted mushrooms)
1 pinch saffron
1 c rice, short grain 2 c chicken stock
1 c asparagus tips, blanched Salt and pepper to taste
In a paellera, heat olive oil. Add garlic, sauté until golden brown. Remove garlic and set aside.
Sauté onions and mushrooms in olive oil. Set half aside together with the garlic.
To the remaining mushrooms, add saffron and rice. Sauté 3 minutes. Add chicken stock. Bring to a boil. Season with salt and pepper. Simmer and cover for 12 minutes or until rice is almost done.
Season asparagus with salt and pepper. Top paella with asparagus, reserved mushrooms and garlic. Drizzle with olive oil. INQ