Better Leyte Than Never
78 years ago, the famed Gen. Douglas MacArthur, along with hundreds of thousands of Allied Forces, made historic landings in this bucolic province, and fulfilled his quotable “I Shall Return,” which he made when he escaped the Philippines during the early months of World War 2.
The apocryphal story on his choice of ground zero for his landings is Leyte’s countryside charm where he can linger and chill around after kicking out the Japanese.
Below is a 21st-century do-ityourself guide on your own stylish Gulf Landings—air, land and sea—which can equal MacArthur’s telltale return.
Pit Stop 1: Tacloban City. The aerial gateway of Leyte and Eastern Visayas Region with roundthe-clock flights from Manila and Cebu, particularly with Cebu Pacific Air which has the most number of flights. From the DZR airport, there are government-accredited car rentals which you can take you around this urban hub and beyond.
Swing around the spots which figured after MacArthur’s return—the postcard-pretty old Provincial Capitol, Price Mansion, and Hotel Alejandro which is a veritable museum with its vintage war photographs.
Other must-sees are Sto. Niño Shrine and Heritage Museum, the Sto. Niño Church, Calvary Hill’s 14 Stations of the Cross, and the hull of MV Eva Jocelyn, a memorial marker of supertyphoon Yolanda.
Take a sunset cruise onboard the San Juanico Cruises and marvel at the 2-km San Juanico Bridge from beneath, and dock at an islet for a different vantage point of the iconic landmark. The newly-installed Aesthetic Light and Sound Show is a mesmerizing treat whether viewed from a distance or from beneath.
Pit Stop 2: Palo. This bustling next-door neighbor town is the new seat of the provincial government, and host to the MacArthur Landing Memorial National Park which depicts the historic Leyte Gulf Landings. Situated at a seaside landscaped park, its platform has a bass relief sculpture of noted artist Nemi Miranda which looks out into the Pacific. It is a favorite public promenade for tourists, particularly on the dates leading to the Oct. 20 landings anniversary.
A grenade’s throw away is the four-star The Oriental Leyte, which is often used as home base in the commemorative program, in retracing the World War 2 trail, and exploring the infinite escapes of Eastern Visayas.
The 128-room luxe resort hotel boasts of modern amenities, facilities, butler service on demand, stately sea view rooms, and delectable international cuisine, serves as a one-stop shop in exploring the sights and sounds of Leyte. Arguably the best region, weekends are spiced up buffets by pop moves by its staff, and a crowd-drawing fire dance.
At the heart of Palo is the neo-gothic and majestic Metropolitan Cathedral of Our Lord’s Transfiguration, which served as a makeshift hospital during the Liberation period and after Yolanda struck in 2013. The seat of the Archdiocese of Palo, it also hosted a Pontifical Mass during the Papal visit of Pope Francis in 2015.
Pit Stop 3: Dulag. Some 28 kms. south is this bucolic town which has an intriguing parallel narrative on MacArthur’s return. Called at some point as “Little Tokyo” because of the concentration of Imperial troops and the Japanese culture it imbibed, it had some of the most massive landings due to the presence of an airstrip which the Allied troops had to occupy.
Within the población is the Liberation Park and the ruins of the Spanish-era Our Lady of Refuge which got hit by US naval bombardments.
At a roadside spot is Hill 120 which marks the spot where US troops hoisted the American flag for the first time on Philippine soil since the Japanese occupation. A stone tableau recreates the scene where Lt. Clifford Mills of the US Army’s 96th Infantry Division climbed a coconut tree and raised the American flag a day before the massive landings in Palo.
About 10 minutes away is the Capt. Isao Yamazoe Shrine which was erected by townsfolk in honor of a beloved Japanese officer who treated the people humanely despite the cruelty of the Imperial Army in most parts of the archipelago. The 32-year old officer sadly died at a guerilla ambush in Curva village before war’s end.
As you move around, sample the signature sticky sweet local snacks of moron and binagol, which go best with coffee. With so much history in the province, you can stretch your day trip to the adjoining towns and soon enough, you will discover that even after 8 decades, it is better in Leyte than never.