Some highlights from Watches and Wonders 2023
“Why does Patek Philippe offer so many different collections?” said Patek Philippe President Thierry Stern. He answered by saying “Because each of them has its own character and its own way of enabling us to innovate and express ourselves.”
The family-owned Geneva watch company released 17 new models at what is now the most important watch fair in the world, Watches And Wonders 2023. Here we choose three that we want to talk about and we tell you why. Each has something interesting and special, reminding people that Patek Philippe is about elegance, excellence and emotion than it is about pieces for bragging rights.
Ref, 5924G Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph
What’s not to love? This is a Calatrava model, which we know and love more for elegance and earth than for anything else. Patek Philippe has been releasing pilot style watches in this family, which thankfully brings people further up the horological ladder who are thinking more “sportsstyle” watches than complications. This is a special new piece. Not only does it have the sought after Travel Time function, it also has the first ever chronograph function in a Pilot style watch. The sunburst bluegray dial inside a white gold 42mm case is stunning.
Ref. 5905R Flyback Chronograph Annual Calendar
Two of the marques’ most popular complications in this one. It has a self-winding flyback chronograph. This means that the timing seconds hand flies back to zero with only one motion. This function is most associated with old-school aviators who needed to time their course corrections very precisely. It also has an Annual Calendar function. You would think this would make the watch look busy, but it doesn’t. The day, date and month are in three symmetrically laid out apertures between around ten and two o’clock. This gives the face of the watch a very clean and elegant look with just the 60-minute subdial at the lower part of the dial to draw your eye. A very discrete (see if you can find it) day/night indicator is at six o’clock and that is meant to help you set the time properly. Because, as everyone knows, annual and perpetual calendars are pretty complicated enough to set as it is. It has a sunburst dial inside a rose gold 42mm case.
Ref. 5968R Aquanaut Chronograph
Ok, yes we will include an Aquanaut. This watch highlights the sportiness of the Aquanaut style with a self-winding chronograph movement. Interestingly, the technical side of the calibre CH 28-250 C combines something traditional, a column wheel drive, with something innovative, a vertical disk clutch. It’s a nice thing to be able to say when people talk about the Aquanaut, give them an upgraded horological education. A sunburst brown dial with a black-gradient rim, in a rose gold 42.2mm case with a screw-down crown.