MOVE­MENT

Mak­ing a State­ment

Philippine Tatler Traveller - - Taste Test -

tack­ling Waste will be the bat­tle cry of top chefs— as well as a move away from “au­then­tic­ity.”

“We’re in­creas­ingly see­ing chefs cre­at­ing things not just from the per­spec­tive of taste, tech­niques or per­sonal nar­ra­tives, but also through the lens of en­vi­ron­men­tal and so­cio-eco­nomic is­sues,” says Cathy Chon, founder of CatchOn, a PR and brand­ing firm that just pub­lished a Fu­ture of Food study. “When you see high-pro­file chefs like Mas­simo Bot­tura be­com­ing ad­vo­cates and ac­tivists, you can ex­pect that will have an ef­fect on what and how we eat.” Le­ung-Hayes points out an­other im­por­tant move­ment: go­ing be­yond the idea of eth­nic “au­then­tic­ity”. “The ‘A’ word is be­com­ing a pet peeve of many. While vis­i­tors to a cer­tain city will pro­claim that a restau­rant back home isn’t ‘au­then­tic’ enough, the in­dus­try is mov­ing to­wards the un­der­stand­ing that au­then­tic­ity in that sense is com­pletely rel­a­tive; it de­pends on the time, the place and the eater, and can never be an ob­jec­tive truth. Com­ing to terms with this idea is es­sen­tial for a cui­sine, in par­tic­u­lar those per­ceived as ‘eth­nic,’ to have the free­dom to move for­ward. Af­ter all, cuisines are con­stantly chang­ing—just as peo­ple and so­ci­eties are.”

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