AN ES­SEN­TIAL TA­BLE IN PARIS

Off to a so­journ to the City of Lights? Call ahead for a ta­ble in the one restau­rant your Parisian travels shouldn’t be without.

Preview (Philippines) - - Chapter Seven Dish - BY JAPPY GON­ZA­LEZ

Be­ing in fash­ion, I find my­self fleet­ing from restau­rant to restau­rant, be­tween cuisines, old and new. The sense of con­tin­ual re­newal is a fuel that feeds the essence of my busi­ness. Truth be told, noth­ing sat­is­fies my gus­ta­tory ap­petites more than mem­o­ries of a fine meal and good com­pany. Some places have sen­sory ef­fects built in. For restau­rants, my fix would be Le Grand Vé­four at the Palais-royal in Paris; an ex­pe­ri­ence that one must at least do once un­til it be­comes an an­nual rit­ual, an ex­er­cise of good taste, ci­vil­ity and also con­vivi­al­ity. The cuisine is as French as it gets, in­ter­preted very close to its orig­i­nal state, like the pressed duck that one can only find at Le Grand Vé­four. As it goes, the truths we be­lieve are those that de­fine us. One foot in the fu­ture and one foot in the past: that’s where I find my bal­ance. grand-ve­four.com

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