Enye hosts a din­ner to re­mem­ber

Sun.Star Cebu Weekend - - Content -

Mac­tan is a mis­sion if you live way down south in Tal­isay City, but din­ners at Enye never fail to make it worth that trip. This one was for one of its Chef's Ta­ble din­ners to in­tro­duce its new chef de cui­sine, Pablo Al­varez. House chichar­ron filled the gaps be­tween ex­changes of pleas­antries as we ar­rived. Made from lo­cal pork jowl, the crack­ling had a de­light­fully light crunch akin to a rice crisp with the fatty fla­vor cut by the tangy-sweet home­made mango vine­gar. We opened with a re­fresh­ing Spumoni and the first of two sets of ap­pe­tiz­ers. A skewer of tangy pick­led tuna stewed in kim­chi mir­rored the briny fla­vor of olives and was off­set by sweet piquillo pep­per and zippy red onion. Squid ink-seafood cro­que­tas came as light bites but heavy with seafood fla­vor topped with sharp gar­lic from a silky aioli and the umami of kat­suobushi. The se­cond wave brought in the sweet­ness of Lapu-lapu en­hanced by the cit­rusy-spice of leche de ti­gre—a Peru­vian ce­viche mari­nade with co­conut to tem­per the spice and again, curry es­puma for sub­tle punc­tu­a­tion. Mango sor­bet bal­anced the sours with a fruity note. The rich­ness of Wagyu tartare was pushed by egg yolk cured in soy sauce. Smoked pa­prika

mixed with seaweed, brioche crumbs, vine­gar and olive oil made the tex­tured bed. One of my Span­ish resto fa­vorites, pulpo, rounds out the trio that went down ex­cep­tion­ally well with a D'Aren­berg Stump Jump Ries­ling. Here oc­to­pus ten­ta­cle was boiled for an hour to a suc­cu­lent ten­der be­fore brais­ing. The chef nixed the menu card de­tails of potato chips and pa­prika air in fa­vor of a last­minute spin of spicy-sweet red curry and the de­light­ful tang of ke­fir sea­soned with cit­rusy lemon­grass, the zesty warmth of gin­ger and smoky car­damom. The first main of mack­erel es­cabeche made for my reed­u­ca­tion from our lo­cal bas­tardiza­tion that I am more fa­mil­iar with. No bot­tled sweet-and-sour sauce fig­ured with the fish sim­ply cooked in vine­gar and served with veg­eta­bles on mashed potato and basil oil. Glazed pork jowl on chorizo fideua pasta with green ali­oli fol­lowed to de­fine pieza de re­sisten­cia paired with a 2017 Casa Al­bali Tem­pranillo Shi­raz Val­dape­nas, The nat­u­rally smooth, soft and sweet jowl cut is com­ple­mented by the 12-hour mari­nade and a four-hour sous vide. Span­ish chorizo lent a meaty di­men­sion to the smoky bro­ken pasta Postres never dis­ap­point here, and the first of two was their sig­na­ture choco mango Cebu, a dark and deca­dent choco­late cre­meux on crunchy choco­late soil with sunny-sweet mango sor­bet. A creamy milk flan came next with cheese crack­ers and a rather un­usual, earthy and al­most sa­vory porcini ice cream. “The Smoky Span­ish,” an Ar­magnac VSOP in­fused with black win­ter truf­fle, sherry, honey fresh bronze fen­nel and alder smoke made for a liq­uid af­ter-din­ner cigar to match. Gra­cias, Chef Pablo Al­varez!

En­joy this Chef­sTable din­ner at Enye by Chele Gon­za­les at Crim­son Re­sort and Spa Mac­tan. For in­quiries, reser­va­tions and new nor­mal op­er­at­ing sched­ules, please call (032) 401-9999 or visit www. crim­son­ho­tel.com. #DineEnye #Crim­sonMac­tan

Vanessa East & Michael Karlo

Squid Ink-Seafood Cro­que­tas

Chef Pablo Al­varez in ac­tion

Wagyu Tartare, Soy-Cured Yolk, Seaweed Brioche

Oc­to­pus, Ké­fir, Red Curry

Mack­erel Es­cabeche

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