Sun.Star Cebu

Japanese still yen for tuna despite dwindling stocks

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TOKYO—It is the king of sushi, one of the most expensive fish in the world— and dwindling so rapidly that some fear it could vanish from restaurant menus within a generation.

Yet there is little alarm in Japan, the country that consumes about 80 percent of the world's bluefin tuna. Japanese fisheries experts blame cozy ties between regulators and fishermen and a complacent media for failing to raise public awareness.

“Nobody really knows the bad state bluefin tuna is in,” veteran sushi chef Kazuo Nagayama said from his snug, top-end sushi bar in Tokyo's Shimbashi district.

Catching bluefin tuna, called "hon-maguro" here, is a lucrative business. A single full-grown specimen can sell for 2 million yen, or $22,000, at Tokyo's sprawling Tsukiji fish market. Japanese fishermen are vying with Korean, Taiwanese and Mexican counterpar­ts for a piece of a $900 million a year wholesale market.

Fallen

Fish dealers at Tsukiji market say the number of bluefin sold at early morning auctions has fallen over the past 10 to 15 years, but most are confident the supply will never run out. Sushi bars and supermarke­ts still readily sell the fish, which is considered a special treat that families might splurge on once every month or two. There's no government campaign to encourage people to rein in their appetites for the iconic Japanese food.

“I have seen some reports on TV about their numbers falling, but I really haven't thought about cutting back on eating hon-maguro,” said Sumire Baba, a Tokyo homemaker.

A scientific assessment released in January found that Pacific bluefin spawn- ing stocks—a key measure of adults that can reproduce—have plummeted by about three-quarters over the past 15 years to match historic lows last seen in the early 1980s. It estimated that the species has dwindled to just 3.6 percent of its original population, and that more than 90 percent of fish caught were juveniles, before they reach reproducti­ve maturity.

The report, compiled by the Internatio­nal Scientific Committee for Tuna and Tuna-like Species in the Northern Pacific and based on data through 2010, received only scant coverage in the Japanese press.

Misleading

The Yomiuri Shimbun, Japan's largest newspaper, ran a brief story that ignored the drop in numbers and focused on a projection offered by the report's authors that Pacific stocks could triple by 2030 if current "effort limits" were fully enforced—coverage that a senior Fisheries Agency official blasted as “misleading.”

Without stricter caps, “there is a high likelihood that Pacific bluefin will become less available to Japanese consumers," said Masayuki Komatsu, a former senior Fisheries Agency official. Japan faces two choices, he said: immediatel­y impose catch quotas or “stop eating the bluefin to protect it.”

Overfishin­g of the Atlantic bluefin, much of it shipped to Japan, got so bad that an export ban was proposed in 2010 at a meeting of the 175-nation Convention on Internatio­nal Trade in Endangered Species. The proposal was rejected, and Atlantic bluefin stocks recovered slightly last year after quotas were imposed.

Environmen­tal groups say, though, that the population remains fragile.

 ?? (AP FOTO) ?? PRICEY. Of all kinds of tuna, the bluefin tuna is the most expensive, with a full-grown specimen selling for as much as 2 million yen or US$20,000.
(AP FOTO) PRICEY. Of all kinds of tuna, the bluefin tuna is the most expensive, with a full-grown specimen selling for as much as 2 million yen or US$20,000.

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