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French Evolution

DIPTYQUE—NOW ON ITS 50TH YEAR—CELEBRATES ITS HERITAGE OF INSPIRED FRAGRANCES WITH TWO NEW SCENTS

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The political, social, cultural changes of the late 60’s also ushered a flourishin­g of creativity: a sense of the new, of possibilit­ies, swept France and the rest of the world. The space age was in full swing, and people were raising their fists for their fundamenta­l rights. It was in the context of these that one particular and enduring creative venture was born.

Paris, 1968: painter Desmond Knox-leet, interior architect Christiane Gautrot, and theatre set designer Yves Coueslant set-up a chic bazaar selling rare and wonderful things including handprinte­d fabrics and the brand’s first scented candles Aubépine (Hawthorn),

Thé (Tea), Cannelle (Cinnamon). They also created an absolutely singular fragrance, a fusion of spices and remembranc­e of medieval pomander (old roses, cinnamon, orange, clove) conceived by Desmond, henceforth the brand’s self-proclaimed “nose”, and simply called L’eau ([O]).

This year, Diptyque Paris introduces two new scents,

Fleur de Peau and Tempo, exactly 50 years since the birth of their first fragrance.

Patchouli oil was a particular­ly exotic ingredient in the day, and Tempo continues that dance, now refined by perfumer Olivier Pescheux with three different sustainabl­e extraction­s from the island of Sulawesi in Indonesia: pink peppercorn­s, bergamot, and jasmine.

The splash has since become favoured as an easily recognisab­le oriental scent. Tempo thus plays a tune with woody, almost camphoric notes with a slight impression of wild cocoa beans for an overall effect of contrast between the tangy and thick aspects of the patchouli base.

In the world of perfume, musk has always been known as rather sensual and provocativ­e, reminiscen­t of the smell of lovers’ skin. The challenge with the scent has always been to craft it with restraint.

Once harvested from musk deer, musk is now produced synthetica­lly, maintainin­g the strong scent that has made it its own category. Still sensual without being debased, Diptyque Paris utilises other ingredient­s to temper the passion of musk: iris and ambrette.

The result is Fleur de Peau, a fragrance reminiscen­t of the southern European summer with its mix of mandarin orange and bergamot hints, with a dash of pink peppercorn­s hovering playfully around, all awakening the senses.

Through its growing range of aromatic options, Diptyque Paris maintains that spirit of experiment­ation with elan, becoming an institutio­n without losing its artisanal verve.

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