Nicco Santos

YOUR LOCAL

What would your last three-course meal on earth be?

First would be sanma nigiri-zushi; second, classic chicken rice; and last, I would like leche flan. Though not my favourite, I have good memories growing up eating my grandmother’s leche flan.

Where do you get the most inspiration?

Travel, of course. But my primary source is my staff. I love to listen. I spend a lot of time listening to and collecting their stories. Not just stories about recipes, but life stories about emotions, family, experiences, and memories. The story can be about anything and inspire a dish. I like to know why a memory stuck with you. Why did that dish mean something to you? What is the story behind the meal? Context is everything. When I see someone cooking I care more about why they are cooking and why they are cooking that dish.

Favourite flavours or ingredients?

I love acidic and sour flavours with some sweetness and spice. I love to have so many layers of flavours but now I am actually trying and learning to “de-layer;” to simplify. I am trying to expose the essence of my cooking, to let the ingredients shine through, with less. It is hard because I am almost trying to unlearn things.

Is there a flavour or ingredient that you don’t like?

I used to hate durian, but now I like it. I used to hate anything bitter. These days, I am not avoiding anything just because I do not like it. However, I do not like cooking with caviar or truffle. Not because I don’t love to eat it—I just don’t like to cook with it. I guess it’s because I do not like to cook with expensive produce and ingredients because of the way I layer and fuse flavours.

Who would you most want to cook for?

Rene Redzepi. I dreamt about having him over for dinner actually.

If you weren’t a chef what would you be?

I would want to be an architect. I like to draw. I like lines. I like abstract things.