MAKE MERRY

SARAH HELLER RECOMMENDS BOT TLES FOR YOUR CHRISTMAS MEAL— WHETHER IT’S RICH AND DECADENT OR LEAN AND GREEN

NAUGHTY As an aperitif: JJ Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese 2008

Although they call riesling the perfect pairing wine, I’d argue its aromatic complexity, sugar-acid balance, and sheer prettiness make it perfect on its own. This Mosel classic shows powdery white florals, piercing white nectarine, and barley sugar sweetness with a clean, chalky finish.

With hors d’oeuvres : Contrà Soarda Torcolato Riserva Sarson 2013

From the almost painfully obscure, esoteric grape vespaiola, grown only in this corner of the Veneto, this air-dried sweet wine brings a uniquely Italian vegetal savouriness and exquisite acid balance to 130g/l oaf sugar. Umami notes of olives and walnut oil make it a surprising hit with briny treats like sardines and oysters.

With the roast: Graham’s Vintage Port 2016

Drinking young vintage port, once only for the truly masochistic, has become the preserve of iconoclasts and hedonists alike. With its intense burst of violets, gorgeously sugary purple fruit, and lingering zephyr of sweet powdery perfume, this is like the world’s sexiest plum sauce (with alcohol!).

With the cheese: The Last Drop Colheita Port 1970

Colheita is an undeservedly overlooked category, combining the seemingly inexhaustible complexity of tawny port with the finesse of vintage (and it’s reflected in the price). The treasure hunting team behind The Last Drop have bottled a uniquely sophisticated one: it slips suavely back with golden raisin, quinine, and bitter lemon notes, melding perfectly with anything firm and salty.

As dessert: Campbells The Merchant Prince Rare Rutherglen Muscat NV

The only dessert that won’t be put to shame by this unctuous, glossy delight is perhaps a dollop of ice cream (or clotted cream) to dribble it over. A lustrous mahogany, it’s perfumed and herbal, like black tea, boot polish, and tar distilled into something delectable.

NICE As an aperitif: Delamotte Blanc de Blancs NV

Lean and lithe but not sharp, this ridiculously undervalued blanc de blancs from the sister winery of Salon is built on a cleansing, saline centre with a soft halo of breadiness, alpine air, and lemongrass around it. Far too easy to keep drinking; be sure to share it with friends.

With hors d’oeuvres: Dehours et Fils Maisoncelle 2009

With an ineffable “mineral” quality on the nose, this 100 per cent pinot noir, single-vineyard champagne’s intense umami, and almost chewy texture from six years on the lees make it a killer match with delicate seafood appetisers.

With the soup: Jean Veselle Oeil de Perdrix NV

An idiosyncratic style straddling blanc de noirs and rosé, the festively named Oeil de Perdrix (“eye of the partridge”) is subtly pink from brief contact with pinot noir skins, giving it the texture and flavour intensity (think wild strawberries, mace, and pink peppercorns) to get stuck right into a hearty vegetable soup.

With the main: Paul Bara Grand Rosé Brut Champagne NV

With a slightly higher dosage than many grower rosés (8g/l) and generous portions of pinot noir (about 80 per cent) and reserve wines (roughly half ), this is a juicy, toothsome rosé with seasonally appropriate redcurrant, marron glacé, and allspice notes. Serve it with something spicy for an electric jolt that will keep you awake through the last course.

Instead of dessert: Philipponnat Clos de Goisses 2004

Chosen not for its sweetness (it’s very dry) but for its richness, think of this as the champagne equivalent of a perfectly aged Comté (with which it would be glorious, if you want to go down that route). Structured and resinous, with candied ginger and cedar, this crown jewel from the re-energised house of Philipponnat comes from what some consider the greatest single vineyard in Champagne.

For more of Master of Wine Sarah Heller’s recommendations, follow @sarahhellermw