Playfully Complicated
Not the type to strictly adhere to the watchmaker’s code, Hermès has issued many a timepiece with a whimsical touch throughout the years. We examine some highlights from its 2019 releases
The Hermès approach to watchmaking has always been a unique one. There is, of course, the textbook combination of a notable legacy, fine craftsmanship, and advanced technological knowhow—part and parcel of any respectable watch manufacture. But Hermès adds character to its timepieces through the inclusion of charming peculiarities that may not readily cross a watchmaker’s mind. There is the Le Temps Suspendu, which allows its wearer to stop time at the press of a pusher. And the Dressage L’Heure Masquèe, which has the hour hand hidden beneath the minute hand, visible, again, only at the press of a pusher. Hermès has its fair share of such.
Exhibited this year at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), the dreamy Hermès Arceau L’Heure
De La Lune showcases a pair of stationary mother-of-pearl moons and two mobile lacquer counters that rotate around the beautiful dial, indicating the current moon phase in both the northern and southern—whose positions are flipped on the watch—hemispheres, all framed within a white gold case. At 12 o’clock, the moon is adorned by a Pegasus by designer Dimitri Rybaltchenko. Issued in 100 limited edition numbered pieces for the aventurine and meteorite dials, respectively, the timepiece immediately sold out.
This year, the maison also debuted the Galop d’Hermès collection, a tribute to its equestrian heritage. La Montre Hermès Artistic Director Philippe Delhotal brought in the designer Ini Archibong, who came in with the fresh perspective of an outsider as he is not from the watchmaking sphere. Inspired by the horse stirrup, Archibong decided on an asymmetrical rounded case with the crown at the 6 o’clock mark—accorded by the space made by extending the lug—to maintain its fluid shape. The timepiece is offered in stainless steel and 18c rose gold cases, and with or without diamonds. Straps come in a variety of calfskin and polished alligator leather.