POWERFUL REDS

This aglianico-based wine from Mount Vulture in Basilicata, one of Italy’s least wealthy regions, grumbles softly about the volcanic soils of its home. Smoky folds of leather become increasingly truffly, indulgent and mouth-coating, seeping into every corner of the brain with a maroon-fruited richness.

Rivera Il Falcone Castel del Monte Rosso 2013

This uva di Troia wine is an unexpected triumph, starting sheer and lucid with a nice bright transparency. Its cleansing flow of acid and finely measured tannins define a tart centre of cherries, meaty soy and crisp dried leaves. It delights with a very fine, cedary finish.