Southern Exposure
One of Asia’s Most Stylish 2020 honourees and founder of contemporary Filipino fashion brand Kaayo, Marga Nograles tells us what keeps her going
Through her creations under her brand Kaayo, Marga Nograles promotes centuries-old traditions
What started as a small partnership with a motherdaughter duo from the T’boli tribe of Lake Sebu in 2016 has now become a sustainable enterprise. Founded by Marga Nograles, Kaayo, which means “goodness” and “kindness” in Visayan language, has since permeated the local fashion scene with its iconic creations such as the T’boli jackets and the tangkulo (a triangular handbeaded cloth used as a scarf) that highlight the craftsmanship and age-old weaving traditions of Mindanao. Tatler speaks with the Davao-born designer about her new projects, current favourites and source of inspiration.
are your sources of inspiration in life and in design?
What I find inspiration in everything. Waking up to another day, spending time with family, a good meal, a good work out, time with friends, happy hours, sunsets, nature, art, fashion, shopping, travel … the list goes on. The work I do is inspired by all of this.
Tell us about your favourites. Jewellery.
Diamonds. Apart from the obvious reasons, they say diamonds protect you, too.
Cities.
My top three are Zermatt, Mykonos and Niseko. During our tenth wedding anniversary, my husband Karlo and I witnessed the magical town of Zermatt transform from a quaint little mountain resort into a winter wonderland overnight. When we arrived, it wasn’t snowing yet. The next day, flurries started and before we knew it, it was white and wonderful everywhere with horse-drawn carriages taking guests around town in the snow. It is my most memorable trip.
We also took a trip around the Greek islands with our kids. Up to this day, our children say it is one of their most memorable vacations. We rode the donkey up the hill in Rhodes, visited King Minos’ maze in Crete, watched the sunset while having tzatziki and white wine in Santorini. We spent most of our time in Mykonos and we had the best four days just exploring this lovely island.
Our last trip before the pandemic was to Niseko with friends. We were four families who shared two chalets and we had the most amazing time eating, drinking, skiing and making our own slopes from the house.
Museums.
The Vasa Museum in Stockholm. Exploring this sunken warship brought me back in time and totally blew me away. Karlo and I also visited the Abba Museum. We didn’t expect much but we had the best time singing, dancing and playing the piano in this interactive museum.
Movies.
[I love] Homeland, Morning Show, The Man in the Iron Mask and See.
What moved you to start Kaayo?
I started Kaayo by chance because I wanted to help give livelihood to a mother-and-daughter duo from the T’boli tribe of Lake Sebu. Our brand has grown since but when I get overwhelmed and lose my way, I always go back to my why, then I am reminded that I am here to design creative livelihood opportunities for our women in Mindanao. This is my focus as I move forward with anything.
What are your favourite materials to use in your designs?
For fabric, I always love to work with denim and chambray. You can’t go wrong with these and it is perfect for indigenous embellishments. T’nalak is still my all-time time favourite. It is classy, rich and represents age-old stories of our indigenous tribes in Mindanao. I also love the hand-embroidered and handwoven fabrics from Laos. I took a trip there a few years back with my mum to learn more about their dyeing and weaving techniques, which are exquisite. I still keep a few weaves from that trip and I can’t bring myself to cut them.
What have you been doing now?
I am most excited about a new collaboration with a bigger local brand. It has been so inspiring to work with this brand and I am learning so much. But more than anything, I am thrilled that they share my passion to create livelihood for our tribes and promote Local. We are so excited to launch a chic new modern indigenous line that is effortless, easy and affordable. I pray this works because if it does, the possibilities for providing work to the many Mindanao tribes are endless. I also still continue with our new Kaayo collections. We are launching our Kaayo Move Athleisure line (the only active wear line hand beaded by a Mindanao indigenous tribe) and we are also working on our resort line and a home line for export. We don’t stop in Kaayo. We just keep on going, experimenting … and with an open mind, every day we keep on learning.
What motivates you to do these projects now?
I always say Kaayo is a gift. I feel it is God’s way of telling me that I am on the right path. We have had so many miracles and blessings since we started and all of these are made possible by the coming together of many people with the shared passion to help, make a difference and promote what is uniquely ours as Filipinos. I have already found a model that works. This model of “kindness”. Kaayo means “goodness” and “kindness” in Visayan language. So I am inspired and motivated to continue on because that is what the world needs now. Hope and kaayo “kindness”.