DENIS FLAGEOLLET
Luxury watch business The 1916 Company, which brings the De Bethune brand to its lounges across the world, recently launched in Hong Kong. Tatler caught up with the watch brand’s founder to talk about his evolution from a legacy-bound apprentice to a pioneering force in the horological landscape
How did you decide to become a watchmaker?
I am the fourth generation of watchmakers in my family—[but] I was not attracted to the field in the beginning. The more I read about watchmaking, learning about the history of watches, the ancestors, the greats, the more I [became] interested.
What made you choose the name De Bethune for the brand?
In the 17th century, there was a knight in France called De Bethune who was curious about science; he was a sailor as well. He also invented some watchmaking components because he needed to sail with precision. His name in French was Chevalier De Bethune; on our dial, we could not write [the whole name] because it was too long, so I went with De Bethune.
You formed the Technique Horlogère Appliquée (THA), a watchmaking workshop that worked with legacy brands, including other greats such as François-Paul Journe, Dominique Mouret and Simon Bull. When did you decide to establish your own independent brand, and why?
I was very happy working at THA, because we were already working on ideas to create beautiful watches and I could see a future for myself there. But over a period of time, I started to feel a bit of frustration because I had
so many great ideas to actually propose to the other brands that I was working for, and the answer [to my proposals] was always “No!” I could not understand why they would say no to my ideas. So this actually pushed me to do something on my own. At some point, I nearly changed direction [from watchmaking] and considered getting into manufacturing boats, because I love working with wood and I love being in nature.
Which was the first previously rejected idea that you implemented when you started De Bethune?
The first thing that comes to my mind is the research in chronometry precision through the innovation in the balance wheel. [De Bethune introduced] the first balance wheel that was made out of titanium; this is something that was proposed to the brands but they would not [try it] because they were afraid of innovation, which is not the case with De Bethune; our aim is to innovate.
In the last 20 years, there has been a growing interest in independent watchmakers, especially in Hong Kong. What do you think brought about this change and why did the indies suddenly become so popular? It’s due to the lack of innovation from many brands—I wouldn’t say all of them, but many of the big brands. So the addition of fresh [ideas] has brought about this change, because of which, a gap started to build [between the legacy brands and the independents]. If someone starts building or making his own brand and having his own factory, it means that he has a special message that he wants to share. And it’s true, we as independents bring a lot onto the table by not being scared of innovating.
What are your biggest strengths and weaknesses as an innovator and a disrupter of the watchmaking industry? My biggest strength is that I have many ideas, and my biggest weakness is that I have many ideas.
De Bethune watches are known to be futuristic. What is the creative process behind using innovative shapes, materials and functions?
It’s like an instinct. I am someone who is very interested and curious about many different things, like different cultures, art, architecture. When you are open to these things, images start appearing in my mind, and that’s the first step.
Is there a watch you wish you had created?
I am lucky to be talented enough to make all the watches I have wanted to make myself. If I want to do it, I will do it myself, no regrets.
What are your thoughts on watch collaborations between legacy brands and independent watchmakers?
I have nothing against it. But to do it myself, it really has to make sense. Beyond the commercial, there has to be something complementary between the brands. And then, if the message is clear, and that is the best way to bring something to the table, then I am really not against it and open to the idea.