Uruguay village lures jet set with gastronomic charm

PUEBLO GARZON, Uruguay, — It is a dusty village of 200 nestled in Uruguay’s back country, with no obvious architectural attraction, which most tourists would drive through without a second thought.

But in recent years, the town of Pueblo Garzon, 70 kilometers (40 miles) from the bustling beach resort of Punta del Este, has become a draw for the international jet set looking for peace and quiet along with authenticity and a taste of some unique gastronomy.

The transformation of this modest village began eight years ago when renowned Argentine chef Francis Mallmann opened a hotel and restaurant on a site where a grocery store used to be.

That attracted some well-heeled visitors and started a trend in the village of dirt roads and lush tropical vegetation.

Today, the streets are lined with luxury cars, high-end restaurants and boutiques and plenty of visitors from around the globe willing to spend $170 for lunch or $780 for a hotel room with rustic charm during the high season of December to February.

In the town, which had been a stop for travelers in the mountains and the site of wheat mill, visitors can dine on smashed gigot of lamb, magret of duck with malbec juice and varietal wines from the region.

They can stay overnight in rooms with wood-burning chimneys and other refinements.

“The idea is to allow customers to relax, to take horseback or bicycle rides, to take advantage of nature, silence and good food, and to get away from the city, the beach and the crowds,” said Victoria Ubertone, hotel manager at the Garzon hotel and restaurant.

“The calm is impressive. It is a back country village like a lot of others, but very chic,” says Monica Testoni, an Argentine who was vacationing in Punta del Este and made a trip for lunch to Pueblo Garzon.