Monsoon Fix in the City of Angels
Now, what’s an itchy-footed traveler to do when the rain starts pouring in Bangkok?
On separate occasions, desperate friends have messaged this writer, trying to get tips on the delightful city of Krung Thep. Unfortunately, the Thai sun had decided to disappear from their foreseeable future.
For an excited tourist ready to shop to death in Chattuchak’s famous open air weekend market, the arrival of thunderstorms and knee-deep floods is a massive vacation-pooper. And it’s not unexpected: Bangkok does experience rainfall half the month for half the year. But the Land of Smiles can still deliver some beams and satisfied grins despite heavy downpours guaranteed to ruin every vacation – if one knows where to go. So here are some tips to keep in mind when the clouds start massing outside.
1. MOCA (Museum of Contemporary Art) The museum is not the first suggestion that a doorman or hotel concierge might give, but that’s because MOCA is a wellkept secret, as well as being a little out of the way. But not to worry, the half-hour or so cab drive is really worth it.
The five-story structure is itself an architectural work of art, with intricate wall carvings letting in natural light juxtaposed against ovoid structures plunked in the middle of cavernous spaces. The museum is blindingly white, with only art to detract from the purity of the structure.
An imposing lotus sculpture floats placidly on a reflecting pond at the main hall, forming a calming counterpoint to the hulking structure of the museum proper (and if one looks closely enough, one can see a tiny metal turtle peeking out from the water.) And inside, an even more impressive experience awaits: the amazing private collection of an art connoisseur with exceedingly refined taste.
Wandering amongst the wonderfully curated Thai artworks is a delightful way to pass at least half a day. A leisurely stroll can open one’s eyes to the equally talented brethren we have in Siam, a fact that, sadly, doesn’t make itself visible in regional art shows such as Art Basel, or even Art Taipei or the Affordable Art Fairs. For example, Thongchai Strisukprasert’s sculptures would surely generate much excitement in the art fairs, for his deft juxtaposition of beasts, wings and gods. His metal aggrupation consists of exciting compositions, always balanced, yet provocative and unique.
Almost in the same category are the canine-humanoids of Anupong Chantorn, sculpted monstrosities that are casually scattered on the floor. Unsettling, and very disturbing. A cautionary tale of sins and gargoyles.
Take time, as well, to look at the details of the enormous visual landscapes of fantasist Prateep Khotchabua. The mermaids, pterodactyls, nymphs and demons that he mashes together in a single nightmarish canvass are jaw-dropping, and extra time taken to make sense out of his bewildering cornucopia is very much worth it.
Aside from the permanent exhibits of revered Thai artists, there is a salon devoted to European 18th century masters, also collected by owner Boonchai Bencharongkul. The salon is an odd accompaniment to the Thai masterpieces on display, but hey, art is art.
2. Jam Factory Over by the “other side” of the Chao Phraya river, celebrated starchitect Duangrit Bunnag has firmly led the charge in a new trend in Bangkok: warehouse collectives.
Starting with his Jam Factory complex, the visionary that is Bunnag has seen fit to tap his magic wand upon moribund structures and breathe new, exciting life into them. (Aside from Jam Factory, the hip Warehouse 30 and the just-opened contemporary art museum in Chiang Mai owe their nascent existence to the Bunnag vision).
In the trail-blazing Jam Factory complex, for example, a merry mix of spaces have been carefully-thought out.
The best time to come here would probably be late afternoon, where one can start by sampling the specialty coffee and various desserts in the Library Café. After espresso, one can hop a few steps over to the resident gallery. The gallery hosts various contemporary artists, and this writer was fortunate to have seen the works of expat artist Juli Baker, whose deliciously messy offering titled “Please make yourself at home” was a vibrant delight.
After the visual art stimulation, it is time to shop for souvenirs, gifts and even furniture in the eclectic design shop called AnyRoom. Stock up on organic soaps, essential oils, and ornaments, but while doing so, keep careful watch of the wallet. Save some cash for the Candide bookstore that offers notebooks and curated stationary for the more contemplative journey maker. After satisfying all the “pasalubong” requirements (or running out of funds, whichever comes first), it should nearly be dinner, and that should be the perfect time to make one’s way over to Never Ending Summer, a Thai fusion restaurant that serves unfailingly delectable cuisine, and this spot is so popular that it’s always booked solid (it is best to make reservations ahead, so that there are no disappointments).
3. Bangkok Art and Culture Center (BACC)
Closer to the heart of the city, BACC is another option for the art-inclined tourist. Accessible by Skytrain (just get off the National Stadium station, which is the last stop of the Silom line), BACC is a must-not-miss destination.
The multi-level building has circular walkways that remind the visitor of New York’s Guggenheim Museum, allowing the viewer a gentler, looped trek along the viewing corridors. On display within is a myriad of choices – whether photography, sculptures, visual arts, or other contemporary pieces that, taken together, offer an intensive course on Thai talent. And best of all, the entrance is free, which is why one shouldn’t be surprised to see many students finding their way to the complex to while away their afternoon.
Apres the roundabout walk, the resident cafes, souvenir shops and craft stores that one then finds at the lower levels can do much to occupy the day. If the rain has stopped, then a quick look outside BACC is likewise rewarding, as here may be found graffiti-based murals from top street artists (like Alex Face’s enjoyable ogres).
Never mind the gloom and the unexpected chill, the day has been well spent, and as with any trip, unique and lifelong memories made. Bangkok never fails to impress – one just has to know how to find the right spots.