Fine Dining Before Restaurant Lockdown
Last March 12, 2020, Enye Chef de Cuisine Pablo Lopez invited select guests to dine at the Chef’s Table. Enye Restaurant in partnership with Crimson Resort and Spa Mactan serves traditional and contemporary Spanish cuisine.
Please notice that I specify the date of the dinner to be clear that the dinner took place before the restaurant lockdown imposed in the light of the current general health situation. This column, excuse me, is compliant with all the government rules and regulations.
Welcome drink at the dinner was Spumoni (Garbaldi), an Orange bitter liqueur with orange juice, grapefruit and pink peppercorn syrup, topped up with tonic water. Two pintxos/tapas were served like the Gilda, Atun Escabeche, Pimiento Piquillo, Cebolla Roja, Aceituna (Skewer of Pickled Tuna, Piquillo Pepper, Red Onion, Olive), and Croquetas Negras & Croquetas de Marisco Calamar (Squid Ink Croquettes & Seafood Croquettes).
The pickled tuna had a peculiar delicious taste and I asked Chef Pablo, who was in a particularly jolly mood that night cooking dinner, about it. He revealed that he made a concoction of Suka Pinakurat, Cebu mango and others. A member of the service staff said that Chef Pablo is so fascinated with this vinegar that they fondly call him Chef Pinakurat.
A bottle of D’Arenberg Stump Jump Riesling was opened and the Main Dishes were served: Ceviche de Lapu-Lapu, Sorbete de Mango (Lapu-Lapu Ceviche & Mango Sorbet), Pulpo Braseado, Patata Revolcona, Aire de Pimenton (Braised Octopus, Potato Chips, Paprika Air) and Tartar de Wagyu, Yema Curada y Migas Brioche Algas (Wagyu Tartare, Cured Yolk and Seaweed Brioche Crumbs).
Ceviche is fresh raw fish cured in acidic fruit juices like citrus, while Kinilaw is fish cured in local vinegars. The mix made by Chef Pablo was a hybrid of vinegar and fruit juices and it made fish more delicious several notches up. The Tartar de Wagyu tasted great!
A red wine was served, the Casa Albali Tempranillo Shiraz Valdepeñas 2017, to pair with the Main Dishes – Verdel Escabechado, Verduras, Pure de Patatas, Aceite de Albahaca (Mackerel Escabeche, Vegetables, Mashed Potatoes, Basil Oil) and the Careta de Cerdo Glaseada, Fideua De Chorizo, Alioli Verde (Glazed Pork Jowl, Chorizo Fideua Pasta, Green Alioli). The latter made me recall a really delicious Chinese dish, Pancit Miki that I tasted 10 years ago. On a scale of 1 to 10, it was an 8 but the Careta de Cerdo Glaseada, Fideua De Chorizo special would easily score a perfect 10. We asked Chef Pablo the source of the Fideua Pasta and, to our surprise, the Bambino Roasted Vermicelli was made in India!
The Smokey Spanish (Armagnac VSOP infused with black winter truffle, sherry, honey, fresh bronze fennel, alder smoke) was served. Enye’s Chef Pablo Lopez selected two desserts to close this lovely dinner at the Chef’s Table: Choco Mango Cebu (Chocolate Cremeux, Crunchy Chocolate Soil and Mango Sorbet) and Flan de Huevo, Helado de Hongos (Milk Flan, Porcini Ice Cream).
Take care, my beloved readers, and stay safe in this time of uncertainty. May the Lord bless us all!