The Freeman

“KINILAW DE ORO” AND “BINAKHAW”

- By: Yasunari Ramon Suarez Taguchi

Filipinos are very much familiar with kinilaw – the ever-popular appetizer-cum-main course dish mainly made of slices of fresh raw fish that’s denatured in a mix of vinegar, herbs and spices.

Largely identified as a dish that’s endemic to the Philippine­s, variations of this special can be found in one region of the country to another, and its varieties are a reflection of how the Philippine­s’ archipelag­ic topography has made an impact on the country’s diversely rich culinary repertoire.

At times referred to as “kilawin”, the terms “kinilaw” and “kilawin” are often used interchang­eably, but foodies are keen on citing a distinctio­n between the two: kilawin refers to a kinilaw-style dish that has its meat/seafood blanched or lightly cooked, while kinilaw uses raw meat, typically fish.

The dish has also been characteri­zed as the Filipino equivalent to Lain America’s ceviche owing to similariti­es in the dishes’ basic ingredient­s and preparator­y steps – save for kinilaw’s use of vinegar, as opposed to the use citrus juices and extracts that’re essential in the making of ceviche.

Though most are already content to enjoy kinilaw without muddling their taste buds over the inclusive or exclusive use of vinegar and/or citrus extracts, there are those who argue that kinilaw is not kinilaw if it is not prepared with certain ingredient­s.

In certain parts of the Visayas, for example, kinilaw is not kinilaw without mayonnaise, while there are regions in the Philippine­s that say that kinilaw is not kinilaw without coconut milk.

But for Cagayanons and Dumagueten­os, their views on kinilaw being kinilaw is hinged on two kinilaw types that originate from Northern Mindanao and Negros Oriental – “Kinilaw de Oro” and “Binakhaw”.

 ?? ??

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Philippines